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Australasia Australia Queensland

Day 14: Coen – Brown Creek Camp- via Portland Road

237 km

Change of plans…we found a camp site that has showers and toilets along the road to Chilli Beach. So we decided if we need to stay somewhere let’s do it where we have some amenities. 

We first past through Archer River Roadhouse.  It was about 11am and so we thought it was time for brunch . We had egg and bacon… and man they did not skimp on the bacon!! I swear there were 4 large pieces each! As a note fuel is $2.00 per liter diesel. The roadhouse is also the last resting place of Toots. She was a pioneering woman that distributed supplies all over the peninsula in her truck that was loaded by hand for years before she and her husband got a forklift.

It was just outside Archer River that it start drizzling and then raining. The roads were getting more slippery.

By the time we got to the campsite- Chuulangun it was only midday. There is a toilet here as well as a rustic shower…but a shower at least . However Johan was keen to keep moving and actually stay at Lockhart River. The only problem here is that there is no camping. So we thought let’s go to the national park campsite,  just beyond them there should be Telstra signal and we can book a campsite. Christo eventually got some signal and looked for availability in 3 camp sites, but there was just one for a car for one night. No cancellation of bookings at Chilli either, so we back tracked some 20km to a free camp spot at Brown Creek and found it empty still- very luck considering it was raining more and more and it was after 4pm.

It was raining hard in the ranges , which is a good tar road by the way, but very windy. The clouds were low and we couldn’t see much in terms of views. It was still raining as we started to set up camp. The rain lightened to a drizzle so we setup the free standing tents on groundsheets in the mud. Luckily the mud was not too bad here. Not the red, clay mud that we had now driven through twice in our efforts to find a spot to camp.

We set up wings off the kitchen area to help protect from the rain, but the tent seam on top is loose and thus drips water there as well as around the joins… so it was sitting in between drips.

We had a shower in the shower tent and used river water. Christo and Matt watched a movie in their tent , as per usual, and Lara and I played Bananarama as we call it. The actual name is Bananagrams.

The wind picked up a lot during the night, with kitchen tent wings flying around and it stoking the smouldering logs that we found at camp when we got here. So sleep was very disturbed !

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Australasia Australia Queensland

Day 13: Hann River Crossing- Coen

193 km

The road between these two points is nearly all dirt…no surprise there,  with patches of good quality tar road. Feels pretty awesome not to have yourself shaken silly on the short tar sections!!

The vegetation between this couple of hundred kilometers changes very often and dramatically.  Just outside of Hann Crossing there are medium sized trees with what looks like an aloe type tree but with palm leaves…then that quickly changes to bare plains where all you see is termite mounds, then back to taller trees and larger vegetation , then plains again.

We refuelled at Musgrave Roadhouse, diesel costing $1.65 here.

We then hit the PDR- Peninsula Development Road. This is a dusty, yet wide dirt road that is the highway of the peninsula. It gets fairly corrugated and sandy in places.

There is loads of traffic on this road- 95% tourists towing vans,  boats, camper trailers etc.

We stop in town to check out where we can do laundry and possibly have dinner- The Sexchange Hotel served both purposes. It was previously known as the Exchange Hotel…but someone (read tradies) added an “S” to the name and it stuck.

We are in Coen for 2 nights , not because there is so much to see really, but because we couldn’t get all 3 nights of camping booked at Chilli Beach. Thus we are slowing down a little, in a holding pattern.

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Australasia Australia Queensland

Day 12: Hann River Crossing – failed Bathurst Heads- Hann River Crossing

213 km

As we spent two nights at this camp we had a day to explore.

Christo and I had originally hoped to get to Cape Melville.  However on further reading, checking out maps, our amount of diesel and need or want for 4WD we decided against that.  The track gets very technical, ultra slow and would take us many hours to complete and have no hours to enjoy the scenery.

We thus decided to head to Bathurst Heads…or more specifically… Princess Charlotte Bay. This was supposed to be half the distance and much easier drive. We all had out swim wear on and hoped for some beach time.

We had an exciting start to the day – Lara spotted 2 good sized pythons , sunning themselves on the road. The one python was nearly roadkill as we came around the corner and it just lay there… so we moved it along so that it could live!

We also saw more Brolga- Cranes.

The road conditions were actually pretty good and no traffic. Good sign this!! Until…we got to a locked gate and couldn’t go any further. This was disappointing as nowhere had we read that there was a permit required or that there would be a locked gate.

It was on the road in, near a large dam that Lara spotted a whole family of wild pigs!! Including some six or so piglets!

We thus decided to continue down the Cape Melville Track… but the track turn bad pretty quickly after reaching Wakooka. After approx. 30min and not much progress we decided to follow another short track along Wakooka Creek. This lead us to a river,  where Johan and Christo did some fishing but caught nothing! What a shame!

We returned home and did some star watching after dinner…with nearly no moon and a cloudless night…this was indeed the perfect night for it.