Month: October 2021

Day 37

23.7 km

Cum 791.7 km

Camped:  No camping –  Walpole

After another night of poor sleep, mainly due to folks rolling around on loud mattresses, I was ready to go by 06h00 but it was drizzling again…so I gave it 15min and it actually stopped and turned out to be a nice day!! Shock- horror!!

Today carried on through vegetated sand dunes as per yesterday with a big climb before the 4km mark, with great views though as reward.

Then there was a pretty big change from the dunes into forests again, mix of tingle, karri, marri and some sheoak. It was through forest that I summited Mt Claire, a fair climb. Had a snack at the shelter there and a longish break and carried on towards Walpole.

There was a lookout to pass and then not much exciting scenery for the last 7-8km. Though as you get close to the inlet there are some amazing new homes there and the inlet walk is pretty good. I probably say that as its got lot of paperbark trees,  which I really like.

Got into Walpole just before 13h00 and hit the Philippine Cafe straight up for a divine lunch, coffee and cake.

Also met the Slow Hikers here. Geoff and Helen have been ahead of me all this time and I was not sure I would meet them, but they spent 4 nights here. I will probably see them down the track. They do seem lovely!

Was great to shower and do washing- small things to non hikers – hahahaha!

Tomorrow is day off without much planned.

Day 36

20.5 km

Cum 768 km

Camped:  Long Point

The day started off drizzly,  and carried on like that for the WHOLE day of walking… not cool rain!

Left the hut at 06h10 and got in at 11h50.

I should just copy paste all the puddle descriptions from yesterday as they are relevant to the first couple of hours today and then a change in scenery into more forests.

After a few hours and many a sand hills we saw the beach and the ocean for the first time!! Yay!! What an occasion! Not much time to celebrate as it was still drizzling and I can see the weather coming in from the ocean.

Make my way up and down more dunes and all the way to Mandalay Beach. The beach  is stunning,  golden, white sands and turquoise waters. There is an old shipwreck out at sea here but not visible very often. The walking on the beach though was tough, and all the sand walking has slowed me right down.

With the rain still coming down and the beach walk done the track continues up the dunes and more and more sand , hills, steps and it kept going.

The walking was behind the dunes where the vegetation reminded me of Cape Fynbos.

The last 5km or so seemed to go on forever,  though there were some good views in the rain. The tops were exposed and fairly windy. I was pretty cold as was wet through!  More steps and two decent hills , then finally the hut!

When arriving I saw there was someone there. It was Pack Animal (David). He has done 30 E2E and parts of the track up to 52 times!! So the afternoon was going to be interesting any which way 😉

About and hour after I arrived the sun came out as Doug and Sandy walked in.

It stayed out for a while, so we put our wet clothes out, hung there for a while ,then more rain came and so the afternoon carried on in that fashion.

At one sunny break I did the 1km walk to the Little Cove lookout. Nice sunny ocean views .

Was not 10min after I was back when it rained again.

Day 35

21.8 km

Cum 747.5 km

Camped:  Woolbales

Out of camp at 06h30 today after laying around a bit . To my surprise it wasn’t raining and it only drizzled a bit at around 10h00. Not bad considering much more was forecast! Though when I saw the weather coming in I thought oh-oh!! Darkness and dark clouds came over but only drizzled .

The water I had to walk through on the other hand… that kept coming and coming and coming!!! Long, long puddles that were often slippery underfoot.  Depth varied between ankle and just above the knee. There were some instances, where the floor was uneven and I sunk in further. Walking poles were used to test the upcoming depth but sometimes they miss the holes, but I step into them.

There were a few times that I hung onto my walking poles while my feet slipped around the bottom and I caught my balance! Luckily! As I would NOT want a dunk in the muddy waters.

When I got into camp, Brendon was already here. He is coming from the south.

I got in at 11h40.

It started raining around 15h00, which I don’t mind, cause I can stay dry in the hut.

Day 34

19.5 km

Cum 725.7 km

Camped:  Mt Chance

I set up my tent for the first time in the hut last night , for mozzies and mice or rats.  It was somewhat wobbly though. Will work on that.

Left camp just after 06h00 and headed down the road, quiet literally,  as the first 14km is dirt road.

It wasn’t particularly exciting,  and even less so when it started raining! This is day 1 of 4 of rain… better get used to it!

Once hitting the track though the rain started proper and so did the long puddles! Became a slog as I was wet from the top and bottom! Unfortunately couldn’t really enjoy the wildflowers either in the conditions.

I finally got into the hut at 10h50, and saw a couple of rangers from Department of Parks and Wildlife who were doing some maintenance.  They left some 30min later and I could finally get my wet gear off and into the dry!!

It stopped raining around 14h00 and Sandy, Doug and myself climbed up Mt Chance to get the stunning views of Pingerup Plains and Broke Inlet.

Mauve walked in later in the afternoon. She, Doug and Sandy actually met each other a week ago or so.

The hut looks like a Chinese laundry with everything hung up.

Also,  my self standing tent is working much better tonight as I figured there are clips that clip onto the walking poles on either end.

Day 33

29 km

Cum 706.2 km

Camped:  Dog Pool

Terrible lack of sleep last night, was midnight and I was still awake! 🙁

Was up and out of the hut by 06h00 for my alternative route to Dog Pool, skipping Lake Maringup Hut.

The first portion of the route was good, spotted some orchids and did my first water crossing. Cold, cold water, got up to just above the knees. The water is clean but very dark due to the tannins in it; so you cannot see the bottom.

Once this crossing was done, the next one had a little bridge plank built on the side. The irony!

Just after this, is where the track goes off to Chesapeake Rd and where I diverted for a few kilometres before hitting Steve’s Rd, unmarked but good road.

All of the rest of the day was on dirt roads, mainly in the sun. I don’t mind the sun as next 3 days its supposed to be raining AGAIN!!!

Saw one snake crossing the road. I think it was a yellow bellied tiger. Not big, maybe a meter.

Came into the hut at 12h55. Pretty good effort, considering I had also stopped to have lunch .

Dog Pool is positioned on the river, with cascades just by the hut. With the high water levels they are loud! Another interesting night …please can I sleep!!

A few hours after me, an older couple arrived: Sandy and Doug. We will be going to Walpole together.

They had done the other hut I missed and they did say it was pretty terrible, but doable.

Also passed the 700km today for my hike!!! Yay!!

Day 32

30 km

Cum 677.2 km

Camped:  Gardner , via Northcliffe

Good, dry night to be in the tent, though condensation unfortunately happened.

Was packed up and ready to go by 06h00, so said farewell and see you later to the others and left.

The day was going to be split into two halves, pre Northcliffe and post Northcliffe,  which is getting to the hut.

The scenery was a bit changeable,  which is good. Passing farmland, spotted a few blue wrens and other pretty birds.

There were some thick, muddy sections but were luckily bypassed along the sides.

Rusty caught up to be just a few hundred meters before Northcliffe,  as I was speaking to Callum,  the only north bound end to ender that I have seen in like a month! Had lots of questions for him for this next section- Pingerup Plains – as parts are flooded waist deep and its a wet section.

Rusty and I walked into the Visitors Centre to pick up resupply and info. We bumped into Tina, who I had actually met at Blue Wren Cafe in Dwellingup. She had just done the section and suggested a hut skip due to the very poor nature of trail and some hard core people who did 26km in like 10 hours, which is very slow for the trail.

We also exchanged numbers as she will be back home in Albany when I’m there.

After a pub meal, tent drying and resupply I was off at 1pm again, to get to Gardner.

The trail changed up some more , white beach sand , sometimes soft and sometimes firmer. And the orchids are back!!! Yeah!!! Spotted three that I have not seen before- King in his carriage, narrow lipped hammer and  forest mantis orchids.

There was also some heath vegetation and a previously bushfire torn area.

The last section had a few hills but I suppose not so bad.

Got into the hut at 16h45 , and was the only one there. Knew Rusty wouldn’t be too far behind.

PS first day that I have worn hat, sunscreen and sunglasses in a very long time!!

Day 31

22.1 km

Cum 647.2 km

Camped:  Schafer

Actually didn’t have a bad night’s sleep, which is refreshing. Woke up to the sun rising through the karri with nice peachy undertones in the sky.

Set off at 06h10, probably getting earlier with the earlier dawn. Was a little bit drizzly for the first couple of hours but then changed to a lovely sunny day!

Didn’t really find my stride today as there were so many fallen trees that I had to climb over or under or go around .

A bit of time spent alongside the river…very full, as with the others we have walked besides!

In getting to Shafer Hut, it must be said that, it is one of the better positioned huts so far. It is overlooking a dam. Very pleasant!

I was planning to stay in the hut, and being the first one there at 12h10, I could have. Two things made me change my mind. Lots of mice and rat stories in the red book and the arrival of 2 more walkers that would have our numbers be 6 in the hut at least… that’s a bit busy.

So I set up my tent.

Day 30

23.4 km

Cum 625.1 km

Camped:  Warren

It wasn’t one block today before I was putting on my rain jacket.  Left at about 06h45 to most of a sunny sky, but the clouds quickly took over.

The first exciting stop for the day was The Gloucester Tree. It is an old fire lookout.  Metal poles are driven horizontally into the tree and spiral around the trunk, acting as a staircase. It is just under 60m in height.  Can be climbed but with my fear of heights,  I’m not game at all.

The walk continues through impressive Karri forest,  dropping steeply to join the cascades walk. Starting flat here is not a sign of things to come,  as it definitely got more hilly throughout the day.

The cascades are a little detour off the track,  but roaring with the volume of water in the river! Then an uphill trek to join the track again.

There were a few more drizzles during the morning so not much time to rest.

A couple of kilometres before the hut, the scenery changed quiet dramatically as the walk went through a swampy area. The vegetation changed as did the smell, which wasn’t unpleasant.

Its a bit of a climb to the hut- gotta work for it 🙂 . It is nicely positioned though,  overlooking large karri trees.

Was joined by Pam and Barry as well as Rusty much later.

Day 29

26.7 km

Cum 601.7 km

Camped:  No camping- Pemberton

What a super wet and windy night!!! Was very glad that I was in my cheapskate backpackers rather than in a hut! Weather warnings abound in the SW , wind gusts of plus 80km/h possible.  Wind speeds recorded of over 100km/h at some coastal stations. 

Any which way, wind warning had dissipated by the morning, it was just going to be fairly wet 5-15mm of rain.

I had a job to do though- had to finish the 25km plus into Pemberton!!!

I had organised a pick up at 06h45 for a whopping $50 to be dropped off at Beedelup Falls. Its about 20km by car.

Got there at 07h10 and started walking. There was just one good thing… all I had was my water bladder and NO BACKPACK!!!

Beedelup hut isn’t far from the falls- about 1.5km. I wondered if anyone would be there when I arrived.  There was – young Rusty- was just packing up his last few things.  We had a chat. He said that the storm wasn’t too bad in the forest.

Not long after having left the hut it started to drizzle and it didn’t stop- just intensified- especially for the last 1.5 hours!!

At least most of the walk was flat, and only the thought of a hot lunch and coffee in town kept me goingJ .

Everything from head to shoes was drenched 100%!

Walking along the river for the last few kilometres,  you could see how full it was- absolutely bulging and roaring over rapids!

So happy to be back in town though!! Unfortunately the next few days are looking a bit wet too – bleh!

Pemberton is another old timber mill village. Houses are thus cottage style and mostly built of wood. Some are very pleasant while others in disrepair.

There are several lovely restaurants and coffee shops and the two shops are well stocked.

I stayed for three nights, for one day off and then to do the last 25km into town.

I also met up with Peter for a coffee catch up and some information sharing.

Day 24

22.5 km

Cum 488.5 km

Camped:  No camping; Donnely River Village

Today started extra early as Alan, Mr walk 50-60km a day easy, wakes up at 04h00. I personally believe people like that should sleep in a tent and not wake everyone up!

Most of the day was relatively unexciting as there was plenty of kilometres of walking through overgrown plant tunnels.

A few hours out of the hut the track does go past the first lot of karri trees. These are eucalyptus trees that lose their bark and have a ghostly grey, white appearance. The forest floor is littered with their bark! Anywhere in the proximity is covered by long shreds !

A little while later I came across Wilson camp, not really an official Bibbulmun track camp, it is a small 4 person shelter, tank and toilet.

Most of the track from here was on wider track and with more karri trees. I also spotted new orchids- snail orchids I believe-growing on a mossy,  decomposing log.

Walking into the village was pretty cool. The village used to be a timber mill based village. Now the timber mill has been closed since 1978 and the town turned into a holiday village. The old timber houses are used as holiday rentals, in a quiet little place surrounded by forest. The village is also well known for having tame emus and kangaroos as well as “28” lorikeets. They are to tame for my liking and love to steal people’s food!

First things first I had a beef lasagne and coffee for lunch, booked my place at the old school house bunk room and had a shower! Then did laundry.

Feeling much cleaner I noticed that the others that had stayed in camp with us last night, had also arrived and so chatted to them before their lift arrived .

Peter will be doing a double hut day tomorrow,  so will be a day ahead of me, but will see him in Pemberton.

Rusty will probably catch up as he isn’t resting in Pemberton but here in DRV with some mates.

I found out that there was some mobile phone signal behind a few cottages in the village and went there to try sort accommodation for Pemberton.  Took a while but got there in the end!

Day 23

18.2 km

Cum 466 km

Camped:  Gregory Brook

Woke up this morning to the whole valley filled with mist…and my whole tent near dripping with condensation.

The view was pretty good; especially as the sun tried to break through.

The walking started with a steep downhill, then a short flat past some farms. One of the farmers actually is lovely and leaves out fresh fruit for the hikers in a cooler box. A sign on it reads …Weary hikers help yourselves.  How nice!? I grabbed an apple.

After the Southampton bridge there is a long, dirt road uphill.

I must say that there wasn’t really too much in terms of scenery today. Lots of plant tunnels that are overgrown that you need to push your way through,  some bushes being fairly thorny.

I was the first into camp at 11h20, followed by the other three from Blackwood. Then two guys came in all the way from Balingup and another couple from the south.

So the hut was very busy, and all this with a full toilet!! Late in the afternoon though, I was standing near the hut and heard vehicles,  then saw a 4WD and a truck behind it that looked like a shit truck.  We were all very happy that in a while we would have a toilet that is usable again!!! How lucky!?! Hahahaha… I know , its the small things.

Day 22

18 km

Cum 447.8 km

Camped:  Blackwood

Can’t say that I slept very well, despite having the whole place to myself for another night.

After watching some news in the morning , I was off a little before 06h45.

The first attraction enroute today was just a couple of kilometres out of Balingup. It is the Golden Valley Tree Park. The walk through very old trees was pretty awesome. There are oaks planted by the Cleveland Family in 1898!! The location of where they first camped and ended up settling. It is the largest arboretum in WA. Due to the fact that it has many European species it would look amazing in autumn, with changing colours.

As I made my way down south, the track was fairly uneventful. At one stages it joins part of the Greenbush loop track. These tracks take us to the location of an old mining ramp where tin ore was dumped from 20 ton trucks. Funny cause 20 ton trucks are super super small!! The mine was called Vultan Tin Mine.

Mining started in the late 1800s. The track also took me past Mt Jones Dam. The water from here was used for processing of the tin, using gravity sluicing.

There were a good few climbs today. One of them opened up to a great view of farmland . This was going to be a taste of what the latter part of the walk would hold.

Coming out of the forest there is a walk alongside farm dirt roads and then through Southampton Farm. Had to walk past a bunch of cows. Luckily they moved away from me and not towards me….hehehehe…phew!

The views from the top of this paddock were pretty good, before turning into a forestry road- pine plantation.  This was the last 2km or so before the hut.

Blackwood hut is situated on top of a pretty high hill. It has great views but is quiet exposed.

I had read online that there is a mouse problem here, so I set up my tent straight up, won’t be sleeping in the hut. There is also a re-vegetation project happening,  so lots of green protective boxes around young plantings.

Glad that I didn’t hike yesterday through the rain; as I would have likely missed all of today’s views.

I was joined in the hut many hours after my arrival by Dave and Katie and then an hour later by Peter. Peter is doing an E2E and the others just a short section.

Day 21

23 km

Cum 429.8 km

Camped:  Balingup Post Office – no camping

Had a very restless night of sleep, partly to the cold and partly to who knows what?

Lewis was leaving early and so was up and about shortly after 5am. He was out of camp at about 06h15, and I was close behind him.

Today was fairly uneventful,  a few views of farmland and some flowers to brighten up the walk.

A highlight was definitely walking into the very cute village of Balingup. Very quaint timber cottages line the streets and there are a few cafes to full up in…which I definitely did!

I stayed at the Posthouse,  which is an addendum to the post office. Four bunks per room, lovely living area, kitchen, dining and great bathrooms.

I was alone in my room, so that’s great !

With it supposed to be a rainy day tomorrow, I have decided to stay another night and miss the up to 10mm of rain.

Took the opportunity to check out the Avenue of honour , planted in 1932. There is a name plate with, date of death and age of each soldier that died in WW1 from this region.

Day 20

23 km

Cum 406.8 km

Camped: Grimwade Campsite

I must say that I had a really good nights sleep last night! Only woke up at 4am.

Was up and ready to go at 06h20.

Today was very much a day of up/down/up/down/up/down/up/down. You get the picture.

There wasn’t anything to exciting on trail really. Just going through jarrah and marri forests.

As I walk and hear black Cockatoos I am reminded to explain what Honky nuts or gum nuts are. They are eaten by black Cockatoos and then strewn over the forest floor to become nature’s version of Lego! They are very uncomfortable to walk on and are ankle busters!

I walked in to camp, knowing that I had completed  400km today!! Yay!

Done for the day at 12h45,  got onto having a wipe down and change of clothes as I knew Lewis was probably close behind me.

Lewis was having a shorter day today, not his usual double hutting 40km plus, so we will share the hut again today. It was sooooo good in that it didn’t rain last night nor today-so could walk through a drier forest!!

I must also add that this toilet is a) nice and close to the hut and b) has a great view when you leave the door open 😉

Day 19

20.2 km

Cum 383.8 km

Camped: Noggerup Campsite

Today was a slow start… despite waking up up 4am and just listening to my audio book.

The pub only opens at 11h30, and there was only 13km to go.

I left camp at 07h15 and walked slow and steady and took several breaks.

The Glen Mervyn Dam was pleasant , with clean looking water, but very cold I’m sure!

I reached the pub at 10h30 and had to wait for an hour…

Ordered salt and pepper squid and a cider…then finished it off with an ice cream .

I then left the pub at 12h45 to finish off the final 8km or so. A nice section out of the pub, followed an old railway line.  It was lined with many wildflowers and orchards and farmland around.

Then came the hill that I had been warned about. But it wasn’t bad. It was a dirt road, steady gradient and kept going for a while.

Another few kilometres through Preston National Park and I arrived at camp before 15h00.

There was an overnight family of 4 who were in their tents. Fire starters too…so we had a fire going before dark. Lewis then walked in , he had walked over 40km from Collie! Last in was Jess, who is just doing a short section.

Day 18

20 km

Cum 363.6 km

Camped: Yabberup Campsite

Why do I keep waking up at 3am??? Probably going to sleep at 9pm doesn’t help! Even earlier in camp, mind you.

Anyway, had a shower this morning and went across the road to McDonald’s to get a bacon and egg Mcmuffin and cappuccino for breakfast. 

Was packed and off again at 07h05, to an overcast morning .

The walk was good, pretty flat and most of the day was walking in a sea of yellow flowers.

I tried very hard to spot the few orchids that I have not yet seen,  but , alas, no cigar today.

The sun broke through a few times today, but not for long. I did make it to the hut at 12h20, just before a light shower hit. There is supposed to be a higher chance of rain as the day progresses.

It did indeed start raining a little before 15h00 and continued steady for a while, with showers until 10pm. Maybe best that I didn’t push on to the pub today as I thought I might. Something to look forward to tomorrow 😉 .