The second part of travels with Tina, whom I met on the track a couple of times, was to Two Peoples Bay National Park. The beaches are beautiful, visited both Little Beach and Waterfall Beach. Didn’t get across the flowing stream to walk Two Peoples Beach, which is very long! There were very many bluebottles on the beach!!
Amazing sculptures of all sizes and such a variety !! $5 enterance per adult.
The first convoy of Australian and New Zealand servicemen and women , numbering 14,000, left Albany for the first World War from Albany. The museum here commemorates the ANZACS and gives many personal accounts from letters.
I did the volunteer fort tour. It was very interesting and informative around the WW 1 history.
It was an eye opening experience to visit the well preserved Whaling Museum in Discovery Bay. The whaling station ceased operations in late Nov 1978. The whales were caught off the continental shelf, about 3 hours south by ship.
The flensing platform , is where the whales were hauled up by winches , to have their blubber removed from their body. This was done with very sharp flensing knives. The whalers wore crampons under their gum boots so that they could mount the whale. The whole was then pulled up further to the cutting platform, to saw off the head and cut the whale up into manageable pieces. The platform had 6 chutes that lead directly into the boilers. This separated the oil, and grax. A whale took about 3 hours in the boilers .
There is an old whaling ship in dry dock, now part of the museum. Worth noting that the whales were harpooned from the ship but not dragged onto the ship at any time. Rather, they were pulled along the ship after having compressed air blown into them so that they float. Each whale got a radio beacon tagged to them and were left for later pick up. Most harpooned in 1 day by 1 ship was 6 whales. The dead whales were left by a nearby island and fetched by tug boat as space became available on flensing deck.
The cutting platform was covered in whale fat and blood. It was thus very slippery. The chutes to the boilers were not covered, thus a real possibility existed to slip into the boiler by mistake!
The whole bay was filled with blood and was red! So no surprise that there were a lot of sharks here too. The whalers also killed the sharks that would feed on the whales, to recover the blubber in their stomachs. They didn’t want to lose pay for that!
NOTE : SOME PHOTOS AND PHOTOS OF PHOTOS ARE VERY GRAPHIC
I was in Albany for nearly 1 week, with time to have a look around town, the area and meet up with friends that I had not seen since South Australia!
Albany is Western Australia’s first European settlement. There are great, little cottages around town , making it really pleasant.
The Western Australian Museum has several old buildings with historical displays, including one on nurses on the front lines of war from Australia. There is also a replica of the Brig Amity. First ship to sail into the bay with prisoners and settlers.
Day 47
24.5 km
Cum 993 km
Camped: ALBANY !!!! Wooohooo!
All six of us in camp were rearing to go this morning! It’s normally just me quietly packing at 05h00…today everyone was up and ready to hit their final trail days!
I was packed and off at 05h40. The last sleep wasn’t great, so may as well walk!
The first half of the track was mainly past the wind farm with 18 turbines. They are huge! They are also positioned along very scenic coastline, cliffs really.
By 09h30 I had reached Sandpatch Hut. Last hut to sign the log book in. Its also the newest hut on the trail. Quiet flash!
The second part of the day was through less exciting terrain. Mainly flat. Getting into Frenchman’s Bay was exciting. Main reason was that Limeburners Distillery is situated here.
Ian and Sigi were already here. Joined them and also let Tina ( who is an Albany local) know that the gin distracted me. She joined for a mocktail. I had a gin cocktail and a G&T. I still had a few kilometres left and couldn’t celebrate fully yet.
Ian and Sigi tried a few whiskies and a couple of gins and shared some food too.
Time to head out again at about 12h30. Bumped into Sonia and Sharon on the way in and said see ya later to Tina, who was going to meet me at the visitors centre as my welcoming party!
The last few kilometers of the trail are really odd and go through industrial area, some weird bush and around the back of town to get into the center .
About 500m away from the finish I saw that Tina was walking down the road. So we walked the last few hundred metres together. She was prepare for the photo taking and recording .
Very exciting to get to the end! The efforts and complaints all got me here finally after 47 days of walking!!
Went in to the visitors center to ring the bell! The bell is even engraved with “Albany” and “ Bibbulmun track “ ! I took great pleasure in ringing it and then did my final sign into the green log book!!
My comment was “ I did it!!; I did it!!; I did it!!”
Day 46
14.4 km
Cum 968.5 km
Camped: Muttonbird
It was a late start today as needed to kill some time before low tide, which was only at 13h30. Luckily, we discovered The Cafe last night, about 1km off the trail.
Heading out of camp at 07h30, I knew I would be there early, but wanted to warm up on the walk.
Took the road walk up to the cafe, and waited for 45min for it to open at 09h00.
It was a nice little place. Had coffee, caramel slice and a big chicken and veggie wrap! Bought biltong as my last night celebration snack .
The walk along Cosy Corner Beach was pretty good, firm wet sand most of the way, with and out going tide.
Then Sonia, Sharon and I got to the inlet. It looked very fast flowing and we just witnessed a couple go through and they did go pretty deep.
Sharon went first, made it , with water up to her mid thigh. As I was going through, it was all fine until I hit a hole , fell in to my waist before pulling myself up out of the current, using my walking poles. Sharon and I dumped our packs and helped drag Sonia out just so she didn’t get stuck or fall like I did. We were real glad that was over!
The view of the beach was great from a vantage point after climbing a good few stairs.
We also saw another hiker crossing the inlet and assumed it to be Rusty- we were correct as later confirmed.
So after leaving the cafe at about 11h00, and having a long break at the lookout, I arrived at the hut at approx. 14h45. I met Chris and Sue here, who have been just behind me all trip and noted my sign in. They had wondered if they would catch up. They have!!
When Rusty got into camp he told us that he had stepped on a snake today. He wasn’t sure if he had been bitten. So he sat down and tried to call 000. Had no signal. So he recorded a message to his family, telling them he loved them. When nothing happened for 30min, he decided to start walking again. Oh boy!
As I write this, in my tent which is set up in a little camping nook, I realise its my last night on the track!! Wooohooo! Last 24.5km into Albany tomorrow!!
Day 45
16.5 km
Cum 954.1 km
Camped: Torbay
I was excited to see that my tent had dried when I woke up during the night. Then there was a 04h00 shower… oh well, carrying a wet tent today then! Bummer!
Today was a pretty good walk. A bit more hilly than yesterday and 200 stairs thrown in for good measure. Luckily it was down the stairs. Not up !
There were two relatively big burnt sections that the track went through. It was burnt quiet a few years ago and there still isn’t much green around.
The views of the capes and beaches were good, despite the frequent morning showers. By about 09h30 the last shower had past.
I got into camp at 11h15 and took out the wet tent to dry. Also met with the local qwenda- bandicoot.
Day 44
19.5 km
Cum 937.6 km
Camped: West Cape Howes
After much deliberation during the last few days and trying to attain information on the track condition between the jetty and Eden Rd Gate , we eventually agreed to get dropped off where 95% of hikers start. This was at 2.5km north of Nullaki shelter. Mark, owner of Blue Wren hostel, dropped us (myself, Sharon and Sonia) off at 07h00.
The walk to Nullaki was short and stopped there to sign the log book. Saw Ian and Sigi there. I had heard of them but hadn’t met them. They are doing a long section from Northcliffe to Albany.
The whole walk today was pleasant, with regular little bench seats to have a break on. The gradient was pretty steady, yet fairly gentle, nice scenery and the weather was sunny and overcast mixed.
There were also some new flowers and orchids out, and also some oldies but goodies.
With the temperature being fairly mild, I only saw 2 snakes, both moved off the track pretty quickly.
The views were nice towards Lowlands Beach as well as to various peninsulas .
As there were going to be many people in the shelter, I decided to put my tent up in a tent spot. I got in at 12h20 and did that straight up as it look like a little rain was coming in. It only drizzled , then later rained steady for about 45min.
The views from around the hut are pretty over the calm ocean.
We expected Rusty in today too, but as of 17h30, no sign of him.
I had a whole 2.5 days off in Denmark. It is a lovely little town and I wanted to explore it a little more. How did I do that without a car? Hahahaha- well, I booked a wine tour 😉 . Originally I couldn’t find a provider but then , luckily another couple booked in for the day of interest and thus the 3 of us were enough! Yay!
The day started off a bit rainy, but cleared up later. Luckily there was plenty of red wine to warm us up!
The wineries we visited were as follows:
1. Forest Hill. This is the first winery to be established in the Denmark region
2. Rockcliffe. Had interesting wine choices such as sparkling shiraz and lovely sweeter wines
3. Single file. Great setting here!
4. Lakehouse for a taste platter lunch
After lunch we changed it up a bit a went to Boston Brewery for a beer/cider. A good end to a 6 hour trip indeed!
Day 43
20 km
Cum 918.1 km
Camped: Denmark- no camping!
Out of the hut before 06h00 again. Had a good walk along the coast before heading inland to climb Mt Hallowell.
And what a climb it was too! Its very rocky and goes around many large granite boulders that are balanced on eachother. Many great opportunities to sprain an ankle. Both the ascent and descent are rocky. Its 300m vertically up and then down.
It was on the downward section that I met a group of 22 organised hikers. They were of the older generation. Their guide says to them, “This is Jo, she is a thru hiker; congratulate Jo as you pass her” Hahahahaha! I felt like I was on display. It was funny. So, I had quick chats with the individuals as they passed me and asked questions.
Eventually the track levelled out, became a river track along the inlet and then I hit the tar road and walked into town.
Got straight into the bakery for lunch at about 12h15 and also got a nice sourdough for the next few days as I’m staying in Denmark for 3 nights.
It was a nice sunny day today, yet the climb up Mt Hallowell was in forest, so that was cooler and pleasant.
Day 42
20.4 km
Cum 898.1 km
Camped: William Bay
When going to the toilet last night, it was awesome to see loads of stars out and not many clouds!
Out of camp at 05h50 and headed down to two short beach walks and some granite boulders to get over.
Then there was a few hours of many hills , walking up and down along the coastline.
There were a few good view points but a lot of energy spent getting up and down !
The day was overcast to start with but no rain! Yay!
Just before 09h30 I got to Parry Beach campground. It was very nice, toilet and shower blocks and an area for Bibb hikers. Lady says that she let’s us stay free- very nice.
She also said that I can cross the inlet easily, even at high tide which was just 30min away.
So I set off on Mazzelotti Beach, 7-8km or so of beach walking ahead of me. The inlet was easy- peasy . My shoes didn’t even get wet, so that’s great! Was reportedly knee deep a week ago???
The first part of the beach was nice and firm sand. Then I had a break on a dune. To my surprise one of the surfers that was there, only one nearby, got out of the water and stripped out of his wetsuit . A bit of a show as he didn’t have anything on underneath … maybe he didn’t see me in the dune…or maybe he did…as he pranced around 😉
I carried on down the next half , but this was much softer sand and also dipping more. Was harder going for sure!
Made a turn around the corner to Greens Pool . This area has many granite rock boulders protecting the beach and little mini bay, making it wave free and nice for swimming. Popular tourist spot with lots of parking and toilets.
Funny enough its also here that I saw my 2 snakes for the day.
It was a short walk down the bitumen road before bumping into Dave and Andrew. They were waiting for their ride into Denmark. They had planned to do another 13km today…but luckily changed their minds. Esp with Andrew’s blisters! Said goodbye and carried on up the final hill climb to the shelter! More huff and puff but got in at 12h50.
Rusty got in some 1 hour later and I think we may be back to just us as the other couples are staying in Parry’s tonight. Having shorter days.
Day 41
23 km
Cum 877.7 km
Camped: Boat Harbour
After a pretty wet night, passing showers, got ready to go and was off by 05h50.
It was a bit rainy for the morning, I did the walk from Peaceful Bay, through the quiet settlement and up to a view point. Then through the road shortcut, not the muddy swamps! Had enough mud!
The walk was fairly up and down but I got to the inlet at 07h15. It was 08h00 before Andrew and Dave got in. They grabbed the one canoe and went to the other side to fetch two more.
We then left one and the three off us paddled off to the other side. It wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. The paddling was a bit awkward, but I got to the other canoe shed. Disembarking was not very efficient at all… I nearly fell into the water all in, but luckily caught my balance!
Thanked the guys a lot for their help and was very grateful that it wasn’t as windy as yesterday for sure.
When doing Quaram Beach the weather came in- wind blowing from behind and rain belting the legs. It was also high tide , so I was a bit concerned that the beach would be fully engulfed with waves at one stage. However, there was a diversion for high tide when you hit rocky outcrops.
Lots of sandy up and down hills as well as a steep set of stairs.
Good views today and I was looking around until I spotted a long snake rolled up on the path at midday. I stomped and stomped and jumped for 15min. Tried to throw sticks in its direction and nothing!! There was a side path that had been created by other hikers and I tried that. Then the snake turned its head and pointed it towards the diversion. Shit! Does that mean its going to head that way if I spook it? I took the diversion in the end and it didn’t move. Dave, it turned out later, nearly stepped onto it and all the other hikers through the day saw it in the same spot!!
It was not 2min later that I saw a long black snake parallel to the path. I saw it too late to do anything. It didn’t move.
In the space of 1 hour I saw 5 in total! The others got off the track quickly. It definitely got the adrenaline pumping and eyes open!!
I got to the hut at 13h15. Was pretty hungry and had lunch.
The guys got in some 1 hour later.
Low and behold, Rusty walked in in the afternoon. He had double hutted through from Rames Head! I didn’t expect to see him so soon again!
Helen and Geoff were in after 16h00 and Helen and Pat were in after 17h00.
So it was a busy campsite I tell you!
Day 40
30 km
Cum 854.7 km
Camped: Peaceful Bay
The rain and strong winds can totally FUCK OFF now! I have had enough of them!
Let’s start at the beginning. First hour and a bit were dry-ish. It was time to have my breakfast muesli bars and I waited until I was at a bench that had a lovely view. However I only finished one of the two bars before it started to rain pretty hard. And that was pretty much how the day panned out!!
Each and EVERY FUCKING time I got to the top of a hill or dune and had a nice view it was passing with rain and windy as hell! There were times I just crouched alongside bushes for a bit of protection.
When I arrived above Conspicuous Cliffs beach, with great views, it pissed down and howled.
I got from Giants to Rame Head by 10h30. Had a 30min break there and a snack. Waited out another shower and continued.
Walking through the dunes the rain continued in random, frequent, stop- start showers. Was very irritating!!
The saddest bit was that there was so many great views. Trying to capture them without soaking the phone didn’t always work!
The last few kilometres just stretched my patience big time! I though I was done with giant puddles and mud…but I was not!!! There were quiet a few! Then several kilometres of beach/ granite rock hopping and of course more howling wind and driving rain!
I was just too happy to get into Peaceful Bay caravan park at about 14h30.
Set my tent up- with the help of Helen, one of the Slower Hikers I met in Walpole. There are also 5 other Bibb hikers here.
This is good, as I requested help from them at the Irwin Inlet canoe crossing tomorrow . I have never been in a canoe and with all the wind today, apparently it was pretty challenging. Dave and Andrew, who were at Frankland River and then bypassed Giants are here too, as they gave up with the weather.
The fish and chips here are allegedly very good, so I ordered some and had a late lunch. Grilled …yummy! Dhufish , is what I ordered. $29 …so pricey, but good.
Had a pow- wow with the other hikers in the camp kitchen and made a bit of a plan for tomorrow.
Day 39
15 km
Cum 824.7 km
Camped: Giants
Not a long way to go today but something to look forward to…hahahaha… the coffee van at The Tree Top Walk.
Left the hut at 06h00, pretty much as usual. My new hut mates were sort of up with the birds…or maybe with my packing?
The walk all the way to the next hut is a slightly undulating walk through the tingle forests again. There are some large tingle trees on show, some hollow and others not.
I did see a feral cat on the track. It is a fair bit larger than a standard house cat. They are a pest but so far I had only seen signs of them, not the actual cats though.
I got to the tree top walk at 09h30, 30min wait until the coffee van opens. I decided not to do the tree top walk, as I have been walking through the forests for weeks now. I feel I have a good enough appreciation for the trees.
It is less than 2km to the hut, and after spending 1 hour eating and drinking coffee, I still got to it before 11h00. So it was going to be a longer day in camp. The weather is pleasant though, still sunny. So will enjoy it.
I must say that Giants hut is really well appointed: washing line with pegs, large hooks and carabiners to hang your food out of reach of the bush rats, wooden door mats to stop carrying sand onto the platform, plastic box in loo for extra toilet paper. Mozzi coils too! Well done to whoever looks after this shelter!
Day 38
18 km
Cum 809.7 km
Camped: Frankland River
After an egg, bacon and coffee breakfast I left Walpole at 08h30. It was so exciting to have a completely blue sky and sunshine!
The trail was enjoyable, with a lovely walk along the Walpole Inlet and then above Coalmine Beach. There was a little miniature sailboat regatta happening.
The walk continues another 5km through forests- mainly tingle and karri. This leads to a great lookout, aptly named Hill Lookout. A few kilometres hereafter is the Giant Tingle Tree. Its centre is hollow and burnt out. Many people could stand in between its limbs! It’s huge!
The rest of the trail continued through the forest, was lovely not to be drenched and have shady forest roads to walk on.
I got to the hut, the only one on stilts on the trail, at 13h05. It also has a covered deck.
A while after they arrived we were joined by Andrew and Dave, who were just doing the section to Denmark.
