Month: August 2024
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12 Aug 2024 – Cann River
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Walhalla- yes- like the Viking name- is an old gold mining town that has been well preserved. It is also the start/ end of the Great Alps Walking track- 650km long.
Early mine investors got a 10,000 % return on their investment!
Some points of interest : the cemetery has very steep slopes and 1,300known graves.
The cricket ground has a steep 200m vertical climb up to it!! If you hit the ball out the park- well- good luck!!
After spending much of the day walking around the village, I drove down the steep, narrow (single lane) dirt road to Thomson Dam – Melbourne’s main water source.
Unfortunately not many places to stop in terms of lookouts but the views were great !
Luckily I wasn’t carried away by the mosquitoes last night- though there were so many between the mesh of my tent and outer layer that I thought we might lift off!
The drive back up to Sale is pretty relaxing, and through some good farming country. I wanted to spend some time I the wetlands here and do some bird watching.
My best experiences were: seeing an azure kingfisher- it was beautiful ! Moved so quick though! Then I noticed a very large nest, high up in the trees and thought- that must be the white bellied sea eagles’… and just then a I spotted the sea eagle coming towards the nest, landing and starting to eat whatever it had caught. A few minute later its partner flew off- perhaps their turn to hunt?
When I was finished at the wetlands I went in to town and the local gallery. There was an exhibition here of Annemieke Mein. It is incredible how she masters fabrics, sowing, water colours, textures etc to create her artwork. She is a local Sale lady- or has been for a long time- and this is thus her gallery so to speak.
The other displays were also fascinating !! Geoffrey Bartlett created the sculptures and the 3D cardboard patterns are the work of Mandy Gunn .
The main reason to stop at Paynesville is to catch the very quick ferry to Raymond Island, which is a koala reserve.
After 15min of looking up in gum trees and my neck hurting, I was quiet sure this was a scam though!!! Hahaha.
Eventually I spotted the first one, really high up a tree…and then probably some 10-12 more during the day .
Most were just sleeping- as per usual- one moved! Surprise!
After catching the ferry back I drove down to Golden Beach to set up camp at a free camp. I was warned about the mosquitoes – and there were a lot of them!
For sunset I went down to Trinculo shipwreck -which unfortunately was much more covered by sand than I expected and a bit disappointing …as was the sunset .
It’s my birthday- it’s my birthday -whooop-whoop !!
Luckily I didn’t have a lot to pack up, left the car and went for a walk then to get a lovely breakfast! Was also hoping to get some birthday cake for later but nothing tickled my fancy.
Then to the main event of celebration – many hours spent at the Metung Hotsprings!
The hot springs are a fairly commercial affair. $55 entry per person (though pay one get one free-not that I had a plus one?!?) There are many pool options, sauna, large gum barrels and single person wine type barrels that overlook the lake.
Luckily, it being midweek there aren’t too many people and everyone spreads out.
All the pools are available at multiple levels- up and down stairs. There are cold plunge pools (20C) located near the hot springs. Mind you- it was cool enough going from spring to spring. Having said that the sun was out, it was about 22C, and generally not too windy.
The day was really nice and relaxing and when I had soaked enough I hit the road through to Bairnsdale to see the frescos in St Mary’s Catholic Church. Most churches in Australia are def not renowned for any frescos but here we are… painted in the 1930s by Franceso Floreani .
I hopped in to the next door tourist info to grab maps and info and then headed SE towards Paynesville, where I set up camp in the caravan park for the night.
I whipped out my chair and got into the fridge to get out my sparkling wine (now that I didn’t have to drive anywhere) and some cheese and to my horror I realised that I forgot my big plastic container with my cheeses and tomatoes in the fridge in the apartment in Metung that morning!! I should explain that I bought some great cheddar in Bodalla, NSW a few weeks back and did not wanna let it go. I called the accommodation, and they hadn’t cleaned the room yet and got the container out the fridge. I said to the fella that I’d call and let him know when I’d get it. Then a thought came to me…in that my new farmer friend might be coming through to Bairnsdale. Sent him a message to share my cheese crisis and low and behold he had an appointment the next afternoon and was super kind enough to get my cheese and drop it off for me!! Yeah!!!
I was excited to get onto a cruise around the lakes today and lunch at the Metung Pub, then back to Lakes Entrance. Unfortunately, the lady told me that I was the only one booked for the day- but I waited 30min to see if anyone else turned up and they didn’t. So that was that plan in shambles.
New plan: go to Nyerimilang Homestead and check out the area here. The homestead has been there since the late 1800s and has amazing views and 250 hectares of farmland attached. The Stuarts owned it as a holiday place and would travel all the way from Melbourne , along the waterways and all the lake systems to come and relax and hunt etc.
I did the walks around the property and then headed to Metung, where I had made a booking for a nice apartment so that I can wake up in a bed on my birthday 😊 .
I unpacked and had a shower then went for a walk around the small township. It was getting nearer sunset so I found a log to sit on by the water and was delighted by the magic that would be my last sunset of my 30s !!! The colours, the reflections on the water, the birds – it was incredible!!!!
I loved it – didn’t want to leave but I had a pub date with a local farmer (been dabbling in the online dating). We had a great fat chat and good laughs!
Two relaxing days spent at Lakes Entrance. Luck was on my side when I booked a non powered site and got upgraded to the powered sites for free. The other section of the park was closed for winter maintenance .
Spent time doing several walks- the best probably being to the Entrance (5km return) to watch the seals fish and play as well as a few dolphins -but from afar.
I had booked a cave tour (Royal Caves, excluding Fairy Cave) for 10am this morning. Luckily our group was fairly small, especially for a weekend.
Interestingly this cave complex was not found by accident but because the Victorian government sent out a search party so to speak. They wanted to find a cave system for the purpose of tourism. The guys went out with dynamite and blew up holes in the ground that looked likely to be cave entrances . This cave complex has now been operating for over 100 years!
After tour it wasn’t quiet lunch time yet to hit the local pub -so I thought id head to Lake Tyers- a pub on the waters edge .
I detoured via a pretty amazing old rail bridge- wooden one. Stoney Creek Trestle bridge.
Had a burger, chips and cider at the pub- on the deck and did a short walk before the drive to Lakes Entrance.
After I unpacked in a motel (lots of rain due this night) ; i had a walk through the lookouts around Kalmina. The views across the ocean and lakes are great and I look forward to a boat trip in the next few days!
I was excited to wake up to a fully foggy morning…and then less excited to know that if it didn’t lift, I wouldn’t see all the beautiful views of today’s drive!
It had lifted a little bit by the time I was ready at 07h30 …I hit the road anyway as it would be all moody, with the hope that it will lift later…or soon!
It might have been a good thing that I didn’t see some of the early drop offs but driving through the clouds was out of this world!
The climb was long and the dirt road winding, I passed two farmers on the road and that was it! Then when I was close to the top it was all blue skies and all I saw was valleys filled with clouds! It was beautiful!!
There are several stops and lookouts on this western part of the road.
Little River Gorge and Falls as well as Dingo Hill at the start of Tulloch Ard Road. This lookout shows off the farmland with forested national park land in the background.
A few kilometres later is the Tulloch Ard Lookout track- 1.6km downhill, then the same back up again. The view is fantastic and the two wedge tailed eagles gliding around made it more special!
It was my intention to do the Silver Mine hike today.
I had some very varied information on this hike. the board at the start of the hike said 5hrs return -18km. My info booklet I had from tourist info said 6hrs one way.
I didn’t want to risk such a large gap and so I made my own variation.
I just kept following Deddick’s 4WD track- all uphill until the top . it is seasonally closed to vehicles… so that’s easy and i was the only one there anyway.
The morning started very misty…so I had 2 coffees before setting off and seeing the mist rise as I did too.
There are several pine trees around and hundreds of blossoming wattles.
The views are of the Snowy River Valley- which is pretty superb!
Still based in Boydtown I went out later than usual to explore Eden- just 10km away. I didn’t get a chance when I drove through a couple of days ago.
Also did a small grocery restock and refuel.
I visited the Eden Killer Whale Museum. A museum, that at inception, was dedicated to Old Tom. Old Tom was the leader of group of Orcas that helped lead whales into Twofold Bay so that they can be hunted by humans.
I had never heard of this technique before. It was developed by the aboriginal people originally and then together with the Davidsons, used for commercial benefit. The orcas were left to feast on the lips and tongue of the killed whale, before the rest of it was hauled and processed.
After the museum I grabbed a lunch special at the Chinese place and walked around town a bit.
The weather was lovely so I did a walk down Aspley Beach and the Quarantine Bay.
A fairly long day of exploring today- dirt road driving with stops for points of interest.
This area is actually a well-known whaling area. Thus, the first stop was Davidson Whaling station. This was started by brothers and continued into the 1960s. The hut remaining here is still very true to old. The actual whaling artefacts have been taken and some are in the Eden Museum.
Pretty nearby is Boyd’s Tower. The original intention was to use this as a lighthouse but permission was never granted for this. It thus became a whale spotting tower. Boyd is an important entrepreneur of the time and owned large sheep stations in the area as well as businesses in town. He was also unfortunately known in trading aboriginal people for slave labour in these stations.
While I was at Boyd’s Tower I did a small section of the Light to Light Walk from here. Not all of it was open -and it is a multi-day hike.
Saltwater Creek was a campsite where no one was camped at. The creek hadn’t flown into the sea yet. City Rock wasn’t much to write home about at all.
The wind was pretty strong at Green Cape- and the lighthouse. The cottages are very nicely restored though, and I had 2 great wildlife experiences.
The first was an echidna who tried to cross the path, then hid when he saw me …and came out a little later. He waddled all the way down the hill! The second was a couple of wombats who were out feeding on the way back from the lighthouse. Usually nocturnal -I’m glad I got to see them.
One of my favourite and most dramatic lookouts is Disaster Bay -its just magnificent! The Wonboyn River comes in to a headland and out to see.
The last stop for the day was Bittangbee Bay.
What I came home with that I didn’t want to though- ticks!!!! I asked one of the guys who’d been camping out and I had spoke to the day before for help it removal. Jeff is his name. Unfortunately, my tick bite was on my side and just under my bra. I couldn’t clearly see it nor remove it. So he was it! We froze it a couple of times and removed it… I then also noticed 2 more bites during the following days ☹.
As the caravan park was on Long Point I had a walk down to the beach and loved how calm the seas were again. A lot of dog walkers out and some surfers.
I didn’t have far to go- often like that – but would spend much of the day exploring Beowa NP.
I stopped by The Pinnacles first. This is a short loop walk to colourful clay cliffs. White and orange with the beautiful sea in the background and blue skies- makes everything pop!!
I then drove all the way to the most northern point of the park- Haycock Point. The views here are also punctuated by maroon geology. There are shags sitting on the rocks …with a lost heron 😊.
Because the weather was so nice- and wind non-existent- I spent some time tanning at Haycock Beach – I was all alone which was great too!
I had a quick stop in Eden to get to the tourist info (and knew id be back for longer) and then drove down to Boydtown (10km away). The powered sites here were a very reasonable 18pn.. and very spacious! I stayed a while as you’ll see.
Still in the same national park – Mimosa Rocks- I drove “down the road” so to say to do a short walk at Wajurda Point. It was a short walk. To my delight as I neared the bay and the lookout I saw something floating in the water- it was a southern right whale!! I watched it for a long time playing in the bay- rolling- slapping of its fins and tail. Was superb!!
Driving through Mogareeka and rivers in more inlets was lovely. Stopped by to enjoy the peace.
I had been told good things about quiet Tathra and enjoyed my time walking around here. Also spotted a whale out in the ocean- which actually came so close to one of the small fishing boats on the water- incredible!
Chamberlain Lookout looks out over the boat ramp and was quiet stunning too!
Driving to Turingal Head picnic area was through a rather pothole filled dirt road. Mainly caused by causeway flooding I think. I was hoping for more viewing areas around the lake but didn’t really get that.
I did do the walk down to the beach though.
The evening in Merimbula was spent at a caravan park.
A pretty chill day today.
My first stop was grabbing a coffee and loaf of sourdough in Bawley Point. Just so happen to notice an elderly couple getting into their vehicle and noticed that they had a flat back tyre. I offered to help change it. The older man says he will go to a service station. I said, no worries, I can pump it up for him with my compressor. He was well impressed that I was that prepared and could send him on his way quickly. There was a station nearby.
I then did the loop walk around Murramarang Aboriginal area. I could not really see the middens that this was all about but there was some interesting info about way of life on the info boards.
My stop for the next two nights is a caravan park in Merry Beach. Luckily not busy at all.
I took advantage of my powered site and charged up all I could with all on low batteries without having done mush driving.