Whananaki to Reotahi Bay

Day 21
Km 27
Cumulative Km 289.3

Today was a pretty good day, even though the distance was pretty far. There was a fair bit of dirt and tar road walking, but in between also a decent 120m ascent, followed by quick descent through another forest.

The views at the start of the trail, known as the Whananaki Coastal Walk, were great! The trail went through several farms and had a small gradient, but on wide farm roads.

Towards the end of the Matapouri Bush track you are greeted by a giant Kauri tree. He is so legendary that he has a name- Tane Moana- and is featured in Maori folklore. He is a beautiful and majestic in its presence.

We arrived in Ngunguru a little after 4pm. Just upon entering the town there is a random pine tree that looks like a Christmas tree for 2/3s and then a wild unkept tree on top. We headed straight for the shop to resupply and get our junk food fixes… especially ice cream and chocolate!

We then arranged with James, who owns the backpackers across the river in Nikau Bay, to get s ride in his boat. His place is really awesome, set in the bush, with hot showers open to the sky and trees. James prepared a fire, which we kept going into the night. We also discussed the next section of walking as it is heavily tide dependent.

D

Day 22
Km 13
Cumulative Km 302.3

With the crossing of the Horahora River, an hour away, being strongly dependent on low tide, we had a very leisurely morning. Low tide at the river is 1.5 hours after low tide in the surrounding area, which made it at 14h30. We thus only left Nikau Bay after lunch.

Unfortunately we also lost Ari, the French girl who joined us yesterday. She decided that the trail was not for her and she will bus and backpack around New Zealand.

The walking today was through a Maori land shortcut, in dirt road. Then a little bit on beach until we hit the river crossing markers. The river was not fast flowing and at lowest tide time came to ¾ up the leg. Getting to the tarred road though went through muddy and smelly mangroves.

The remaining 10km was on tar road. However the kilometres were reduced as the people who we were going to stay at were not replying to texts or phone calls. We thus stopped early, at Treasure Island camp site in Pataua South. When we arrived there, there was no one at the office, no one answered phone calls and no campers around. Moritz went to try and find someone and came back successful!

It was starting to rain when we were paying , and the lady suggested that we set up in the rumpus room rather than in our tents as it would be a wet night. We were so glad that she did as a thunderstorm came through at about 8pm. We would not have been particularly happy campers outside, I reckon!

After the storm passed there was a beautiful orange, pink and peach sunset.

Day 23
Km 20.7
Cumulative Km 323

We set off shortly after 7am and hit the road, there were going to be many road kilometres today. After the first few though, we decided that we would try and hitch. Several cars passed us, but were full of school kids. After 20min of no success we carried on walking.

The road was narrow though with very little place to move away from traffic, so at another section we tried again and George, a guy on his way to work, stopped for us and took us all the way to Kauri Mt Rd. Carrying on, on the dirt road was a pleasant walk through cow pastures and onwards to Ocean Beach.

It was only a 6km stretch on the beach, so not as bad as 90 Mile Beach!
The beach had great views of Te Whara Trail , which is a very challenging but stunning trail and part of the TA. However the trail was closed for Kauri dieback maintenance. After having some lunch at the end of our stretch of beach we had 10 more kilometres of road walking to do to get to Reotahi Bay. By this time a steady light rain had set in and continued throughout the afternoon and into evening.

With sore feet and weary from dodging cars on the road we figured we would try and hitch again until the end of the road, and our destination. Lo and behold, the first car the passed us , stopped and we were in! It was a lovely older gentleman. He heard me saying that we were hoping to stop by a shop, which had unfortunately been permanently closed, to buy chocolate, but he said he may know of another that might do the trick. It was open! So we got chocolate and lunch! Well, 2nd lunch 🙂.

We were due to camp on the lawn of some lovely trail angels- Clare and Graham. However with the rain we half asked and they half offered their covered porch. So we didn’t have to deal with the weather again ! We could even shower in their bathroom- how lovely of them! And all for $5!