Category: Australia

The second part of travels with Tina, whom I met on the track a couple of times, was to Two Peoples Bay National Park. The beaches are beautiful, visited both Little Beach and Waterfall Beach. Didn’t get across the flowing stream to walk Two Peoples Beach, which is very long! There were very many bluebottles on the beach!!

Amazing sculptures of all sizes and such a variety !! $5 enterance per adult.

The first convoy of Australian and New Zealand servicemen and women , numbering 14,000, left Albany for the first World War from Albany. The museum here commemorates the ANZACS and gives many personal accounts from letters.

I did the volunteer fort tour. It was very interesting and informative around the WW 1 history.

It was an eye opening experience to visit the well preserved Whaling Museum in Discovery Bay. The whaling station ceased operations in late Nov 1978. The whales were caught off the continental shelf, about 3 hours south by ship.

The flensing platform , is where the whales were hauled up by winches , to have their blubber removed from their body. This was done with very sharp flensing knives. The whalers wore crampons under their gum boots so that they could mount the whale. The whole was then pulled up further to the cutting platform, to saw off the head and cut the whale up into manageable pieces. The platform had 6 chutes that lead directly into the boilers. This separated the oil, and grax. A whale took about 3 hours in the boilers .

There is an old whaling ship in dry dock, now part of the museum. Worth noting that the whales were harpooned from the ship but not dragged onto the ship at any time. Rather, they were pulled along the ship after having compressed air blown into them so that they float. Each whale got a radio beacon tagged to them and were left for later pick up. Most harpooned in 1 day by 1 ship was 6 whales. The dead whales were left by a nearby island and fetched by tug boat as space became available on flensing deck.

The cutting platform was covered in whale fat and blood. It was thus very slippery. The chutes to the boilers were not covered, thus a real possibility existed to slip into the boiler by mistake!

The whole bay was filled with blood and was red! So no surprise that there were a lot of sharks here too. The whalers also killed the sharks that would feed on the whales, to recover the blubber in their stomachs. They didn’t want to lose pay for that!

NOTE : SOME PHOTOS AND PHOTOS OF PHOTOS ARE VERY GRAPHIC

I was in Albany for nearly 1 week, with time to have a look around town, the area and meet up with friends that I had not seen since South Australia!

Albany is Western Australia’s first European settlement. There are great, little cottages around town , making it really pleasant.

The Western Australian Museum has several old buildings with historical displays, including one on nurses on the front lines of war from Australia. There is also a replica of the Brig Amity. First ship to sail into the bay with prisoners and settlers.

I had a whole 2.5 days off in Denmark. It is a lovely little town and I wanted to explore it a little more. How did I do that without a car? Hahahaha- well, I booked a wine tour 😉 . Originally I couldn’t find a provider but then , luckily another couple booked in for the day of interest and thus the 3 of us were enough! Yay!

The day started off a bit rainy, but cleared up later. Luckily there was plenty of red wine to warm us up!

The wineries we visited were as follows:

1. Forest Hill. This is the first winery to be established in the Denmark region
2. Rockcliffe. Had interesting wine choices such as sparkling shiraz and lovely sweeter wines
3. Single file. Great setting here!
4. Lakehouse for a taste platter lunch

After lunch we changed it up a bit a went to Boston Brewery for a beer/cider. A good end to a 6 hour trip indeed!

Day 43

20 km

Cum 918.1 km

Camped: Denmark- no camping!

Out of the hut before 06h00 again. Had a good walk along the coast before heading inland to climb Mt Hallowell.

And what a climb it was too! Its very rocky and goes around many large granite boulders that are balanced on eachother. Many great opportunities to sprain an ankle. Both the ascent and descent are rocky. Its 300m vertically up and then down.

It was on the downward section that I met a group of 22 organised hikers.  They were of the older generation. Their guide says to them, “This is Jo, she is a thru hiker; congratulate Jo as you pass her” Hahahahaha! I felt like I was on display. It was funny. So, I had quick chats with the individuals as they passed me and asked questions. 

Eventually the track levelled out, became a river track along the inlet and then I hit the tar road and walked into town.

Got straight into the bakery for lunch at about 12h15 and also got a nice sourdough for the next few days as I’m staying in Denmark for 3 nights.

It was a nice sunny day today, yet the climb up Mt Hallowell was in forest, so that was cooler and pleasant.

Day 42

20.4 km

Cum 898.1 km

Camped: William Bay

When going to the toilet last night, it was awesome to see loads of stars out and not many clouds!

Out of camp at 05h50 and headed down to two short beach walks and some granite boulders to get over.

Then there was a few hours of many hills , walking up and down along the coastline.

There were a few good view points but a lot of energy spent getting up and down !

The day was overcast to start with but no rain! Yay!

Just before 09h30 I got to Parry Beach campground.  It was very nice, toilet and shower blocks and an area for Bibb hikers. Lady says that she let’s us stay free- very nice.

She also said that I can cross the inlet easily,  even at high tide which was just 30min away.

So I set off on Mazzelotti Beach, 7-8km or so of beach walking ahead of me. The inlet was easy- peasy . My shoes didn’t even get wet, so that’s great! Was reportedly knee deep a week ago???

The first part of the beach was nice and firm sand. Then I had a break on a dune. To my surprise one of the surfers that was there,  only one nearby, got out of the water and stripped out of his wetsuit . A bit of a show as he didn’t have anything on underneath … maybe he didn’t see me in the dune…or maybe he did…as he pranced around 😉

I carried on down the next half , but this was much softer sand and also dipping more. Was harder going for sure!

Made a turn around the corner to Greens Pool . This area has many granite rock boulders protecting the beach and little mini bay, making it wave free and nice for swimming.  Popular tourist spot with lots of parking and toilets.

Funny enough its also here that I saw my 2 snakes for the day.

It was a short walk down the bitumen road before bumping into Dave and Andrew. They were waiting for their ride into Denmark.  They had planned to do another 13km today…but luckily changed their minds. Esp with Andrew’s blisters! Said goodbye and carried on up the final hill climb to the shelter! More huff and puff but got in at 12h50.

Rusty got in some 1 hour later and I think we may be back to just us as the other couples are staying in Parry’s tonight.  Having shorter days.

Day 41

23 km

Cum 877.7 km

Camped: Boat Harbour

After a pretty wet night, passing showers, got ready to go and was off by 05h50.

It was a bit rainy for the morning, I did the walk from Peaceful Bay, through the quiet settlement and up to a view point. Then through the road shortcut, not the muddy swamps! Had enough mud!

The walk was fairly up and down but I got to the inlet at 07h15. It was 08h00 before Andrew and Dave got in. They grabbed the one canoe and went to the other side to fetch two more.

We then left one and the three off us paddled off to the other side. It wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. The paddling was a bit awkward,  but I got to the other canoe shed. Disembarking was not very efficient at all… I nearly fell into the water all in, but luckily caught my balance!

Thanked the guys a lot for their help and was very grateful that it wasn’t as windy as yesterday  for sure.

When doing Quaram Beach the weather came in- wind blowing from behind and rain belting the legs. It was also high tide , so I was a bit concerned that the beach would be fully engulfed with waves at one stage. However,  there was a diversion for high tide when you hit rocky outcrops.

Lots of sandy up and down hills as well as a steep set of stairs.

Good views today and I was looking around until I spotted a long snake rolled up on the path at midday. I stomped and stomped and jumped for 15min. Tried to throw sticks in its direction and nothing!! There was a side path that had been created by other hikers and I tried that. Then the snake turned its head and pointed it towards the diversion. Shit! Does that mean its going to head that way if I spook it? I took the diversion in the end and it didn’t move. Dave, it turned out later, nearly stepped onto it and all the other hikers through the day saw it in the same spot!!

It was not 2min later that I saw a long black snake parallel to the path. I saw it too late to do anything.  It didn’t move.

In the space of 1 hour I saw 5 in total! The others got off the track quickly.  It definitely got the adrenaline pumping and eyes open!!

I got to the hut at 13h15. Was pretty hungry and had lunch.

The guys got in some 1 hour later.

Low and behold, Rusty walked in in the afternoon.  He had double hutted through from Rames Head! I didn’t expect to see him so soon again!

Helen and Geoff were in after 16h00 and Helen and Pat were in after 17h00.

So it was a busy campsite I tell you!

Day 40

30 km

Cum 854.7 km

Camped: Peaceful Bay

The rain and strong winds can totally FUCK OFF now! I have had enough of them!

Let’s start at the beginning. First hour and a bit were dry-ish. It was time to have my breakfast muesli bars and I waited until I was at a bench that had a lovely view. However I only finished one of the two bars before it started to rain pretty hard. And that was pretty much how the day panned out!!

Each and EVERY FUCKING time I got to the top of a hill or dune and had a nice view it was passing with rain and windy as hell! There were times I just crouched alongside bushes for a bit of protection.

When I arrived above Conspicuous Cliffs beach, with great views, it pissed down and howled.

I got from Giants to Rame Head by 10h30. Had a 30min break there and a snack. Waited out another shower and continued.

Walking through the dunes the rain continued in random, frequent,  stop- start showers. Was very irritating!!

The saddest bit was that there was so many great views. Trying to capture them without soaking the phone didn’t always work!

The last few kilometres just stretched my patience big time! I though I was done with giant puddles and mud…but I was not!!! There were quiet a few! Then several kilometres of beach/ granite rock hopping and of course more howling wind and driving rain!

I was just too happy to get into Peaceful Bay caravan park at about 14h30.

Set my tent up- with the help of Helen, one of the Slower Hikers I met in Walpole. There are also 5 other Bibb hikers here.

This is good, as I requested help from them at the Irwin Inlet canoe crossing tomorrow . I have never been in a canoe and with all the wind today, apparently it was pretty challenging.  Dave and Andrew, who were at Frankland River and then bypassed Giants are here too, as they gave up with the weather.

The fish and chips here are allegedly very good, so I ordered some and had a late lunch. Grilled …yummy! Dhufish , is what I ordered.  $29 …so pricey, but good.

Had a pow- wow with the other hikers in the camp kitchen and made a bit of a plan for tomorrow.

Day 39

15 km

Cum 824.7 km

Camped: Giants

Not a long way to go today but something to look forward to…hahahaha… the coffee van at The Tree Top Walk.

Left the hut at 06h00, pretty much as usual. My new hut mates were sort of up with the birds…or maybe with my packing?

The walk all the way to the next hut is a slightly undulating walk through the tingle forests again. There are some large tingle trees on show, some hollow and others not.

I did see a feral cat on the track. It is a fair bit larger than a standard house cat. They are a pest but so far I had only seen signs of them, not the actual cats though.

I got to the tree top walk at 09h30, 30min wait until the coffee van opens. I decided not to do the tree top walk, as I have been walking through the forests for weeks now. I feel I have a good enough appreciation for the trees.

It is less than 2km to the hut, and after spending 1 hour eating and drinking coffee,  I still got to it before 11h00. So it was going to be a longer day in camp. The weather is pleasant though,  still sunny. So will enjoy it.

I must say that Giants hut is really well appointed: washing line with pegs, large hooks and carabiners to hang your food out of reach of the bush rats, wooden door mats to stop carrying sand onto the platform, plastic box in loo for extra toilet paper. Mozzi coils too! Well done to whoever looks after this shelter!

Day 38

18 km

Cum 809.7 km

Camped: Frankland River

After an egg, bacon and coffee breakfast I left Walpole at 08h30. It was so exciting to have a completely blue sky and sunshine!

The trail was enjoyable,  with a lovely walk along the Walpole Inlet and then above Coalmine Beach. There was a little miniature sailboat regatta happening.

The walk continues another 5km through forests- mainly tingle and karri. This leads to a great lookout, aptly named Hill Lookout.  A few kilometres hereafter is the Giant Tingle Tree. Its centre is hollow and burnt out. Many people could stand in between its limbs! It’s huge!

The rest of the trail continued through the forest, was lovely not to be drenched and have shady forest roads to walk on.

I got to the hut, the only one on stilts on the trail, at 13h05. It also has a covered deck.

A while after they arrived we were joined by Andrew and Dave, who were just doing the section to Denmark.

Day 37

23.7 km

Cum 791.7 km

Camped:  No camping –  Walpole

After another night of poor sleep, mainly due to folks rolling around on loud mattresses, I was ready to go by 06h00 but it was drizzling again…so I gave it 15min and it actually stopped and turned out to be a nice day!! Shock- horror!!

Today carried on through vegetated sand dunes as per yesterday with a big climb before the 4km mark, with great views though as reward.

Then there was a pretty big change from the dunes into forests again, mix of tingle, karri, marri and some sheoak. It was through forest that I summited Mt Claire, a fair climb. Had a snack at the shelter there and a longish break and carried on towards Walpole.

There was a lookout to pass and then not much exciting scenery for the last 7-8km. Though as you get close to the inlet there are some amazing new homes there and the inlet walk is pretty good. I probably say that as its got lot of paperbark trees,  which I really like.

Got into Walpole just before 13h00 and hit the Philippine Cafe straight up for a divine lunch, coffee and cake.

Also met the Slow Hikers here. Geoff and Helen have been ahead of me all this time and I was not sure I would meet them, but they spent 4 nights here. I will probably see them down the track. They do seem lovely!

Was great to shower and do washing- small things to non hikers – hahahaha!

Tomorrow is day off without much planned.

Day 36

20.5 km

Cum 768 km

Camped:  Long Point

The day started off drizzly,  and carried on like that for the WHOLE day of walking… not cool rain!

Left the hut at 06h10 and got in at 11h50.

I should just copy paste all the puddle descriptions from yesterday as they are relevant to the first couple of hours today and then a change in scenery into more forests.

After a few hours and many a sand hills we saw the beach and the ocean for the first time!! Yay!! What an occasion! Not much time to celebrate as it was still drizzling and I can see the weather coming in from the ocean.

Make my way up and down more dunes and all the way to Mandalay Beach. The beach  is stunning,  golden, white sands and turquoise waters. There is an old shipwreck out at sea here but not visible very often. The walking on the beach though was tough, and all the sand walking has slowed me right down.

With the rain still coming down and the beach walk done the track continues up the dunes and more and more sand , hills, steps and it kept going.

The walking was behind the dunes where the vegetation reminded me of Cape Fynbos.

The last 5km or so seemed to go on forever,  though there were some good views in the rain. The tops were exposed and fairly windy. I was pretty cold as was wet through!  More steps and two decent hills , then finally the hut!

When arriving I saw there was someone there. It was Pack Animal (David). He has done 30 E2E and parts of the track up to 52 times!! So the afternoon was going to be interesting any which way 😉

About and hour after I arrived the sun came out as Doug and Sandy walked in.

It stayed out for a while, so we put our wet clothes out, hung there for a while ,then more rain came and so the afternoon carried on in that fashion.

At one sunny break I did the 1km walk to the Little Cove lookout. Nice sunny ocean views .

Was not 10min after I was back when it rained again.

Day 35

21.8 km

Cum 747.5 km

Camped:  Woolbales

Out of camp at 06h30 today after laying around a bit . To my surprise it wasn’t raining and it only drizzled a bit at around 10h00. Not bad considering much more was forecast! Though when I saw the weather coming in I thought oh-oh!! Darkness and dark clouds came over but only drizzled .

The water I had to walk through on the other hand… that kept coming and coming and coming!!! Long, long puddles that were often slippery underfoot.  Depth varied between ankle and just above the knee. There were some instances, where the floor was uneven and I sunk in further. Walking poles were used to test the upcoming depth but sometimes they miss the holes, but I step into them.

There were a few times that I hung onto my walking poles while my feet slipped around the bottom and I caught my balance! Luckily! As I would NOT want a dunk in the muddy waters.

When I got into camp, Brendon was already here. He is coming from the south.

I got in at 11h40.

It started raining around 15h00, which I don’t mind, cause I can stay dry in the hut.

Day 34

19.5 km

Cum 725.7 km

Camped:  Mt Chance

I set up my tent for the first time in the hut last night , for mozzies and mice or rats.  It was somewhat wobbly though. Will work on that.

Left camp just after 06h00 and headed down the road, quiet literally,  as the first 14km is dirt road.

It wasn’t particularly exciting,  and even less so when it started raining! This is day 1 of 4 of rain… better get used to it!

Once hitting the track though the rain started proper and so did the long puddles! Became a slog as I was wet from the top and bottom! Unfortunately couldn’t really enjoy the wildflowers either in the conditions.

I finally got into the hut at 10h50, and saw a couple of rangers from Department of Parks and Wildlife who were doing some maintenance.  They left some 30min later and I could finally get my wet gear off and into the dry!!

It stopped raining around 14h00 and Sandy, Doug and myself climbed up Mt Chance to get the stunning views of Pingerup Plains and Broke Inlet.

Mauve walked in later in the afternoon. She, Doug and Sandy actually met each other a week ago or so.

The hut looks like a Chinese laundry with everything hung up.

Also,  my self standing tent is working much better tonight as I figured there are clips that clip onto the walking poles on either end.

Day 33

29 km

Cum 706.2 km

Camped:  Dog Pool

Terrible lack of sleep last night, was midnight and I was still awake! 🙁

Was up and out of the hut by 06h00 for my alternative route to Dog Pool, skipping Lake Maringup Hut.

The first portion of the route was good, spotted some orchids and did my first water crossing. Cold, cold water, got up to just above the knees. The water is clean but very dark due to the tannins in it; so you cannot see the bottom.

Once this crossing was done, the next one had a little bridge plank built on the side. The irony!

Just after this, is where the track goes off to Chesapeake Rd and where I diverted for a few kilometres before hitting Steve’s Rd, unmarked but good road.

All of the rest of the day was on dirt roads, mainly in the sun. I don’t mind the sun as next 3 days its supposed to be raining AGAIN!!!

Saw one snake crossing the road. I think it was a yellow bellied tiger. Not big, maybe a meter.

Came into the hut at 12h55. Pretty good effort, considering I had also stopped to have lunch .

Dog Pool is positioned on the river, with cascades just by the hut. With the high water levels they are loud! Another interesting night …please can I sleep!!

A few hours after me, an older couple arrived: Sandy and Doug. We will be going to Walpole together.

They had done the other hut I missed and they did say it was pretty terrible, but doable.

Also passed the 700km today for my hike!!! Yay!!

Day 32

30 km

Cum 677.2 km

Camped:  Gardner , via Northcliffe

Good, dry night to be in the tent, though condensation unfortunately happened.

Was packed up and ready to go by 06h00, so said farewell and see you later to the others and left.

The day was going to be split into two halves, pre Northcliffe and post Northcliffe,  which is getting to the hut.

The scenery was a bit changeable,  which is good. Passing farmland, spotted a few blue wrens and other pretty birds.

There were some thick, muddy sections but were luckily bypassed along the sides.

Rusty caught up to be just a few hundred meters before Northcliffe,  as I was speaking to Callum,  the only north bound end to ender that I have seen in like a month! Had lots of questions for him for this next section- Pingerup Plains – as parts are flooded waist deep and its a wet section.

Rusty and I walked into the Visitors Centre to pick up resupply and info. We bumped into Tina, who I had actually met at Blue Wren Cafe in Dwellingup. She had just done the section and suggested a hut skip due to the very poor nature of trail and some hard core people who did 26km in like 10 hours, which is very slow for the trail.

We also exchanged numbers as she will be back home in Albany when I’m there.

After a pub meal, tent drying and resupply I was off at 1pm again, to get to Gardner.

The trail changed up some more , white beach sand , sometimes soft and sometimes firmer. And the orchids are back!!! Yeah!!! Spotted three that I have not seen before- King in his carriage, narrow lipped hammer and  forest mantis orchids.

There was also some heath vegetation and a previously bushfire torn area.

The last section had a few hills but I suppose not so bad.

Got into the hut at 16h45 , and was the only one there. Knew Rusty wouldn’t be too far behind.

PS first day that I have worn hat, sunscreen and sunglasses in a very long time!!

Day 31

22.1 km

Cum 647.2 km

Camped:  Schafer

Actually didn’t have a bad night’s sleep, which is refreshing. Woke up to the sun rising through the karri with nice peachy undertones in the sky.

Set off at 06h10, probably getting earlier with the earlier dawn. Was a little bit drizzly for the first couple of hours but then changed to a lovely sunny day!

Didn’t really find my stride today as there were so many fallen trees that I had to climb over or under or go around .

A bit of time spent alongside the river…very full, as with the others we have walked besides!

In getting to Shafer Hut, it must be said that, it is one of the better positioned huts so far. It is overlooking a dam. Very pleasant!

I was planning to stay in the hut, and being the first one there at 12h10, I could have. Two things made me change my mind. Lots of mice and rat stories in the red book and the arrival of 2 more walkers that would have our numbers be 6 in the hut at least… that’s a bit busy.

So I set up my tent.

Day 30

23.4 km

Cum 625.1 km

Camped:  Warren

It wasn’t one block today before I was putting on my rain jacket.  Left at about 06h45 to most of a sunny sky, but the clouds quickly took over.

The first exciting stop for the day was The Gloucester Tree. It is an old fire lookout.  Metal poles are driven horizontally into the tree and spiral around the trunk, acting as a staircase. It is just under 60m in height.  Can be climbed but with my fear of heights,  I’m not game at all.

The walk continues through impressive Karri forest,  dropping steeply to join the cascades walk. Starting flat here is not a sign of things to come,  as it definitely got more hilly throughout the day.

The cascades are a little detour off the track,  but roaring with the volume of water in the river! Then an uphill trek to join the track again.

There were a few more drizzles during the morning so not much time to rest.

A couple of kilometres before the hut, the scenery changed quiet dramatically as the walk went through a swampy area. The vegetation changed as did the smell, which wasn’t unpleasant.

Its a bit of a climb to the hut- gotta work for it 🙂 . It is nicely positioned though,  overlooking large karri trees.

Was joined by Pam and Barry as well as Rusty much later.

Day 29

26.7 km

Cum 601.7 km

Camped:  No camping- Pemberton

What a super wet and windy night!!! Was very glad that I was in my cheapskate backpackers rather than in a hut! Weather warnings abound in the SW , wind gusts of plus 80km/h possible.  Wind speeds recorded of over 100km/h at some coastal stations. 

Any which way, wind warning had dissipated by the morning, it was just going to be fairly wet 5-15mm of rain.

I had a job to do though- had to finish the 25km plus into Pemberton!!!

I had organised a pick up at 06h45 for a whopping $50 to be dropped off at Beedelup Falls. Its about 20km by car.

Got there at 07h10 and started walking. There was just one good thing… all I had was my water bladder and NO BACKPACK!!!

Beedelup hut isn’t far from the falls- about 1.5km. I wondered if anyone would be there when I arrived.  There was – young Rusty- was just packing up his last few things.  We had a chat. He said that the storm wasn’t too bad in the forest.

Not long after having left the hut it started to drizzle and it didn’t stop- just intensified- especially for the last 1.5 hours!!

At least most of the walk was flat, and only the thought of a hot lunch and coffee in town kept me goingJ .

Everything from head to shoes was drenched 100%!

Walking along the river for the last few kilometres,  you could see how full it was- absolutely bulging and roaring over rapids!

So happy to be back in town though!! Unfortunately the next few days are looking a bit wet too – bleh!