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Colombia South America

Zipaquira

On my last day in Bogota, Colombia and South America I decided to visit the salt cathedral in Zipaquira. It is about 45minutes to the northern bus terminal and then another 1.5 hours north to Zipa as the locals call it.

The town is actually very pleasant, with several pedestrian streets lined with colonial buildings. There are several squares one which boasts the cathedral.

The salt cathedral is located in the old underground workings of a salt mine. It was very busy as it was a weekend, not only a weekend but long weekend. 

Everyone grabs an audio guide and walks down through the main tunnel into the mine. The tour starts with all 14 stations of the cross. I had expected that the stations would be more ornate. However, they were simple representations of the cross at the various stages of the stations. Many of them had the old workings /tunnels as their back drop.

It is amazing that the miners spent their free time forming these carvings underground, which the Colombian people voted as their first wonder of the country.

After the stations you walk through under a dome structure towards the actual cathedral, where services are still held at midday every Sunday. The dome is 11m in diameter and 7 miners worked on the structure.

From here you can see the 16m tall cross the forms the backdrop to the altar. It spans 10m and weighs 16 ton.

There is a notable statue of Pope Francis on the side of the altar.

At the start of the aisle is a carving, by a local artist, depicting the creation of man. It is the same scene as is depicted by Michelangelo in the Sistine Chapel, though only focusing on the hands/ part bodies.  

The artist made God’s hand 3x bigger than Adam’s. He also avoided giving God a face, so that the person looking at the work can put their own image to it. There are also representations of wind, earth, water and fire in the sculpture.

The workings of the mine cover the 1km2 of the salt deposit, in 3 different levels. The top levels used room and pillar mining, while the bottom level, where the newest cathedral is situated used long room method. Mining on the 3rd level commenced in 1979.

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Colombia South America

Santa Marta

Santa Marta is mainly a transport hub, not particularly a city that is visited very much unless you have it as a stop before catching a bus or plane. 

I spent a few hours walking around, the city also has a historic part though is not as colourful as Cartagena as an example. t was pleasant enough for a quick stay.

The airport runway is right along the beach- something unique about the city. 

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Colombia South America

Tayrona NP

After Minca I caught a mini bus back to Santa Marta, then immediately went from here to Palomino- 2 hours and many, many stops away!! Palomino is east of Tayrona National Park and I decided to make it my base before and after the park as I found a great hostel there- quiet, lots of space, lots of birds and no one else there!! Palomino has a very long beach with good waves for surfing, though the water is relatively muddy in comparison to the calm Caribbean waters that I got used to.

I repacked my hiking bag to leave the big bag behind and headed on the bus the next day to the secondary entrance to the park- western most one- from Calabazo village. By the time I had breakfast and the bus dropped me off it was 10am and hot!!! Then I found out that we are in high season apparently- all of June and July is high season even though it wasn’t school holidays yet! This means an even higher cost for foreigners than normal…oh the joys!!

I had a 3-hour hike from the gate to Playa Brava. The hike is mainly uphill through the forest and then a steep downhill to the beach. The forest is dotted with large wild figs and the scary sounds of howler monkeys! I remember them from the Amazon- 10 years ago.  The ground is also covered with dead leaf debris and I couldn’t help but wonder when I am going to step on a viper of some type???

With the heat and humidity, I was relieved that a fairly large portion of this hike was in shady forest.

I arrived at the beach at 1pm- and picked a hammock for the night. There was an undercover circular area where there were about 10 of them, hanging centrally from a middle pole and radiating out. I dropped my bag and headed to the water to wash off all the dust which, mixed with the sweat on my legs had turned to mud. As I walked out of the enclosure I said hello to a couple who were lying on the grass and realised it was the Canadian /Australian couple that I had spent the trip to Minca with!! So we caught up on the last few days. They only came down for the day- and wished they stayed…same conversation we had relating to Minca!

I was looking forward to a quiet time at the beach until two large groups walked in…. at least there is plenty of beach place for everyone to be out of each other’s way 🙂

When everyone was having dinner I grabbed a chair on the beach and checked out the stars- haven’t seen them in ages!! The sky was fairly cloudless and the moon had not come out yet.

It was my first time sleeping in a hammock- let’s say it was not a comfortable night!! Great to relax in, but in my opinion not great to sleep in. I woke up with the sun, had “breakfast” of granola biscuits and an apple on the beach and headed off towards Cabo San Juan –the most popular beach in the park and thus generally loaded with people! Though I intended to camp at a campsite east from there.

It was due to be a 2.5-hour hike to get here. The route starts out flat, through a river bed, then climbs for most of the way- a tough slog!! It was made tougher by the fact that I got really bad chaffing from the day before and I was raw! The salty sweat made it a lot worse- and in my great discomfort I decided that I would walk all the way to the eastern most camp site from where you can catch a shuttle to the main road, to catch a bus back to Palomino and spend the night at my hostel. The hike to Cabo San Juan goes past the nudist beach first- I arrived here to the scurry of 5 guys who were naked and didn’t expect anyone to come out of the forest –clearly!! They all giggled like girls and ran for the bushes! Then casually walked past me in their board shorts. I just laughed.

At this stage I was walking like a cowboy to try alleviate some pain, though it wasn’t really working. I reached Cabo San Juan in over 3 hours- so my pace was slower than planned. I had a snack of more granola biscuits and enjoyed the view and the beach without too many people, then carried on towards Arrecife. Luckily the first part of this was flat- a welcome change. Though there was a large increase in volume of people coming in for the day- hordes of people trekking in their flip flops. There are many stairs across the large boulders that are a feature of the landscape as well as through the forest.

After a much longer than recommended walk/wobble I got to the camp site, had a bit of a rest and headed towards Canaveral… where the shuttle is! This took about 1 ¼ hours… even though the recommended time was 50min. However I made it!

I had been looking forward to a drink since early this morning… so when I hit the town I figured I would grab lunch and a drink. However, town was strange- super quiet- despite it being lunch time. All the shops and business were closed and few people on the streets. It turns out that there were some pamphlets handed out- however I cannot get to what was on them exactly; however, it threatened everyone to close their business down- not sure why though? Luckily there was a restaurant, part of a hostel that had not closed, so I grabbed late lunch there and ordered a drink- to which the waitress replied that they had no one to make it!!!!!

The next day the businesses were still closed. I took the bus to Santa Marta in the morning as I had a flight the next day. At least Santa Marta was operating as normal.

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Colombia South America

Minca

Minca is a shortish ride by minibus from Santa Marta. I decided to come here for two reasons:

  1. Run away from the heat and humidity of the coast (though this was only successful for night time temperatures –at least nicer to sleep in!)
  2. Some hiking in the rain forest

The village reminds me a lot of Mindo in Ecuador- and has the same selling points: rain forest, birding, chocolate, coffee and some adventure activities.

I took a hike to La Candeleria coffee/chocolate factory. I did this with the main purpose of having chocolate J However they had plenty of coffee beans for sale but not what I came for! It was a tough, steep uphill climb most of the way- I was sure that I had burnt up all that chocolate I was going to consume!! Hehehehe- or not. The hike does provide nice views of the valley and you can see the city of Santa Marta on the coast. It was also nice as there was not much traffic on the road due to it being a Sunday.  

 

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Colombia South America

Corales Islas del Rosario

After being on the go for several weeks nonstop I decided that I need some chill time and decided to do this in Rosario National Park, near Cartagena. I also didn’t want to worry about much, so I booked it as a bit of a package tour.

The pickup was an hour late- always a good start. There was literally a bus load of people. Our first stop was Playa Blanca- not part of the park but a very popular spot for holiday makers and weekenders. To be quiet honest, I am not sure why?? The whole beach is packed with what can be most accurately described as shacks- all pretty rackety construction. There is no running water or electricity and there is also lots of rubbish everywhere. Clearly the infrastructure cannot keep up with the influx of people. You need to pay for absolutely everything- chair hire, or cabanas if you want to part with a lot of money. There are again LOADS of people trying to sell you food to jewellery to clothes. Luckily most of the people are al on a day trip and they disappear at 3-4pm every day, and everything quietens down considerably!

Now, I didn’t go into this without knowledge of the situation- I only stopped here to do a night trip to swim with the phytoplankton that is in a nearby lagoon. There was just another couple and myself, that were staying at the same accommodation that went on a small boat. It’s not like the water glows all the time, it only lets off a glow from the phytoplankton when you jump in or move your arms and legs around. It appears as if you have an aura while you move around – and floating is pretty easy as the water is salty. There was a half moon, so the light variance was not as intense as if there was less light, but was still OK.

The next morning, I was off to Isla Grande- though arranging a boat was a real pain. I think more the distrust of the people organising it. I had to pay 35,000 after being told it was 25,000 pesos by the agency. Then the guy who organised it said it was that expensive because the trip was about 50minutes- which I knew to be bullshit as one of the locals had said it was 20-30minutes the day before.

I got to my accommodation and went for a walk to explore the island a little and find a beach to swim and cool down a little- though the water is really warm, so you don’t technically cool down. There are several beaches around the eastern part of the island- where I was based. I noted that there was also a lot of rubbish here on the island, so much for a national park!

I was glad that it was during the week and low season, so there were few people around.

The next day I went snorkelling -which was good- there is a wide variety of fish, about 100m off the beach. We went out by boat- heaven knows why as you could just swim out there! The fish species were similar to Galapagos, with some different ones I have not seen before. The reef, on the other hand is dead or dying, which is of course a shame. The great thing was that I had the reef to myself for the first hour, with another group arriving later but being pretty far away.

I was hoping that I could get back to Cartagena in the late morning, but it turned out that the information that there are frequent boats was a myth. 3pm was the only boat. Again I had to pay for the trip, but the payment was to the owners of my accommodation, not the boat captain…so I’m sure they skim off some off that too!

In the end the relaxing was good, but I was left with a strong feeling of being ripped off- and just peeved off with that! I don’t think it has been that bad before.

I do not have photos as I took a break from that too 🙂

Categories
Colombia South America

Cartagena

I take a short flight from Medellin to Cartagena, its scenic and passes over green mountains and valleys. I land in the evening and its a short taxi ride to the historic centre, where I will be based. The weather in this region is very hot- about 35C – and humid! So –Caribbean in other words. I need to get used to it as I will be in this type of climate until I hit Europe in essence. It takes only minute to be outside though before you are dripping!

The next day I start off with organising a few days around National Park Corales del Rosario- some beach and do absolutely nothing time! I haven’t had any days off for a while and needed them!

Once this is finalised I head off into the town to explore.

The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site and has many small streets lined with colourful street art and old colonial buildings. Walking around and discovering the little treasures is fun, though the street sellers of absolutely everything are shitting me to tears. I lost count at 40 offers in two hours… and this went on for my whole time!!! I understand that these people are all trying to make a living however it is SUPER irritating!

Due to Cartagena’s geographic location it had been raided and under siege a few times in history. This meant that a fortress was needed- the whole old city is still actually surrounded by old city walls. There is a large fortress built on the hill, with a series of tunnels emanating from the fort to allow the army personnel to blow up the enemy as they got closer to the fortress but prior to penetrating it.

Once I had explored the old part of town I went to the most modern part of Cartagena- Bocagrande. It is filled with high rises and pretty unassuming beaches. It’s not particularly pretty or charming.

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Colombia South America

Medellin

The trip from around the Salento region to Medellin should take 5 hours, with the current roadworks more likely 8 hours but many people that I have met had reported it to last longer than 11!! This cemented my decision to take a flight from Manizales to Medellin.

I had also heard that the airport is about 1 hour from the centre. I was pleasantly surprised to fly over the city centre and land in it… there is also an airport in the centre for smaller planes. This means that I had a quick taxi ride to my accommodation.

I stayed in the well- to- do part of town, filled with restaurants and cafes as well as expensive car sale garages. It was pleasant to walk around. The whole city is spread out, like many South American cities, throughout a large valley and up the mountain sides. It is a good thing then that the city is very well connected with the metro, cable cars and bus lines. The city has a park that has many Botero statues in it (called Botero Park). Botero donated these statues, each valued at 1.5 million USD. These were placed in what used to be a very dicey part of the city. This is an example of democratic transformative art that can be found around the city.

I spent the day walking around the city and visiting the museum of modern art (MAAM). The city is very busy, loads of people and construction happening. There is a much more obvious problem with homeless people in this city than others I have been to.  The next day I joined a walking tour- with the lovely Mari from Realcitytours. The tour gave a good insight into how Medellin went from being the most dangerous city in the world to what it is today. It also gave us an appreciation of life during those very violent times and a little bit of an understanding of Colombians and their current happy state. The peace is still somewhat unstable and uncertain, but is a marked improvement on the past. With more stability come more tourists- about 50 000 per annum, 25 years ago to 5 million now.

There is a chilling tale of violence that took place in San Antonio Square. There was a concert that was taking place in July 1995. Families were attending and enjoying the evening when a bomb exploded. The bomb had been set in a Botero statue of a bird. Botero himself requested the major to keep the blown up bird statue as a reminder of the incident and death that had occurred. He also then made another statue. These two now stand side by side and a are a reminder of the past and hope for the future. This is only one of thousands of examples of violence though.

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Colombia South America

Hacienda Venecia – Coffee Farm

I was pretty excited to be visiting a Colombian coffee farm- it would just take a few trips to get there. I caught a bus from Salento back to Pereira, then from Pereira towards Manizales but asking the bus driver to drop me off at San Peregrino bridge. There is a restaurant here that radios the coffee farm and they send over an old land rover as transport.

Hacienda Venecia was actually recommended to me by the couple that I did the Uyuni trip in Bolivia with. They did the luxury hotel stay while I slummed it in the dormitory- which wasn’t bad any way with only 3 of us in total.

The location is great, with coffee bushes growing along the mountainsides, interspersed with bamboo forests. There are loads of birds to see- and several varieties of humming birds too! The estate has a good deal of hikes that you can wonder around and coffee and chocolate tours. As I have done a good chocolate tour in Mindo, Ecuador I signed up for the coffee tour instead and learned a lot— the next few paragraphs are a pretty detailed account of coffee facts and processing —skip to the photos if you are not keen on the details J

There are two main types of coffee- Arabica (which most of us know) and Canephora. Arabica is about 2/3 of world production and Canephora is the rest. Robusta, belongs to the Canephora family. It is more resistant to diseases and grown at lower altitudes than Arabica. It also has about twice the caffeine of Arabica.

Arabica does have more complex aromas and is more expensive than Robusta.

Seeds are germinated (called matchsticks as that is what they look like); they then grow a pair of rounded leaves- the first and only leaves – hereafter the first pointy leaves appear and the plant is planted into small bags for a few months for further development. The bush grows and is most productive in its 3rd year, production decreases towards the 5th year when the bush is completely cut, about 30cm from the soil. It then lets out new shoots and the process begins again. Each planting can have up to 5 of these cycles (25 years) before the plant is no longer productive, gets gut at the base and burned.

The shrub produces flowers (then seeds) when it is most stress i.e. when there is least water. In this region this is in January, and thus the largest harvest is in October (9 months later). There is a mini harvest in April/May after a drier period in July. However, in between there are fluctuations in rainfall and thus the shrubs flower and seed fairly continuously and thus coffee is picked daily.

This process is entirely by hand. There are approximately 70 permanent workers on the farm and at peak picking this goes up to 500! Pickers are paid per kilogram.

There are two types of drying processes:

  1. Dry process where the whole fruit is dried (seed, peel and muselage)
  2. Wet process where the peel and muselage is removed first. Dry only the seeds. This company uses the wet process.

The processing steps are as follows:

  1. The fruits that are picked daily are transported to the sorting and washing plant.
  2. Fruit that has borers, or air bubbles floats and the better quality sinks.
  3. The fruit is peeled to remove the skin and muselage, and the beans then pass a strainer that will only allow peeled beans through due to size, unpeeled green fruit will be processed differently.
  4. Various tanks are available for splitting the beans into: 1st (sinking of the sinking beans) 2nd (floats of the sinking beans) and 3rd (floats of the floating beans) class.
  5. Two stages of drying occur to get the moisture to 10-12%.
  6. Export beans are stored in 40kg bags, parchment around the beans is only removed just before export or roasting. This parchment is also used as fuel for the drying ovens.
  7. The beans are then sorted by density- lower density beans contain contaminants such as hollow beans and parchment, while higher density beans are best quality –less contaminants.
  8. The beans are then sorted by size (cause size matters J ) Both monster beans and tiny beans are a problem because they burn easily when roasted, and are thus low grade. The best are medium sized beans.

Coffee beans that are going to be exported will go off site to be sorted electronically, then bagged for export, 70kg bags to all countries except Canada who takes their coffee in 45kg bags- the joke was that Canadians aren’t as strong as Colombians.

Export bags contain information on the producer /country number (alphabetical order)

Exporter number and shipment number.

The process of roasting beans is of course most important and is when the flavours and aromas are developed.

The higher the temperature and longer you roast a bean for the more you will hide the flavours-good and bad. This is thus done with 3rd grade beans.

The lower the roasting temperature the fuller the subtle aromas and flavours.

Low temperatures, for a long time bake the bean and produce very dull coffee, while too high a temperature for a short time will only burn the outside.  Beans that are the same colour thus do not necessarily have the same taste as their colour could have been attained by many paths.

 

When beans are roasted the internal temperature of the roaster actually decreases a little as moisture is released, before increasing again. Medium roast coffee- in my opinion – the best way to have 1st grade beans- is the point between what is called the first and second crack. The coffee beans make a popcorn type crackling sound at first crack and like an electric current sound at second crack.

 

Two interesting facts:

Caffeine is broken down at 239C, coffee is not roasted to this temperature and thus the caffeine content of lightly roasted and dark roasted beans is the same. Thus it would be incorrect to refer to coffee as being “caffeine” strong based on its roast, rather than its taste alone perhaps.

Coffee beans are best about 1 week after roasting. For this time period the beans release carbon dioxide and flavours develop. This release of gas is also the reason why some producers make coffee bags for shop sale with valves installed- to release this CO2- not for us to smell it really. The bags that do not have valves are sometimes found to be inflated in the shops- this is due to this gas release.

Categories
Colombia South America

Salento

Salento is situated west of Bogota. A fairly lengthy 6-8 hours by bus, depending on your luck. In order to save time, I flew from Bogota to Pereira, then took a 1 hour bus ride to Salento, with a bunch of people from the plane. The bus driver was actually so kind that he found out where the hostel was that I was staying at was and dropped me off right at the corner so I only had to walk about 100m – not that it was a far walk from the bus terminal anyway!

It is a small village but is super colourful and pleasant. It seems that nearly each house in town has a different colour scheme and decorates the outside of their houses with bright colours. It is really wonderful to see.

A half an hour Jeep trip into the Valley of Cocora is where the hike to see Colombia’s National tree starts. What tree is it you may be asking- the giant wax palms that grow up to 60m in height! The jeep has two benches inside, 6-8 passengers inside and 2-3 hanging off the back step!

The anticlockwise hike starts with a downhill section, then continues through muddy trails – trails that got much muddier as it started raining 10minutes into our hike and continued for the next 2 hours! I did the walk with Tobias- a Swedish fella who has also been travelling for the last 6 months. So we did some note comparing as to what we have seen and what our favourite places were. We did not stop and take the hummingbird detour as it was still raining and we didn’t think any of them would be out, and did see some on the top of the hill- beautiful turquoise green with long tails. Stunning! You can hear them flying past before you see them usually as their fast beating wings make some noise.

The top of the mountain should yield stunning views of valleys and wax palm trees…but with the low hanging clouds all we got was white. Somewhat disappointed, wet and very muddy we carried on, hoping for the best. Eventually as we arrived to a couple of viewpoints we got a good view of the palm forest and were rewarded with the huge palms and great views of the valley.

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Colombia South America

Bogota

I got into El Dorado Airport, Bogota, from Quito. It was an early evening flight, however it took over an hour to get through immigration, so it was after 9pm that I caught a taxi. Luckily there was not much traffic, so it only took 20 minutes to get to my accommodation.

The next day my first visit was to the Gold Museum. It is hailed as an excellent world-standard museum, and I would agree with this rating. The artefacts, divided by tribe, are of such a fine quality and level of detail that it is hard to imagine. The goldsmiths used wax loss methods to make these fine detailed artefacts. Some items were large –used as jewellery and masks as well as chest plates, while others are very fine, short figurines. (No photos)

After this I had some lunch and carried on to the main square. I didn’t spend too much time here though as there was a large demonstration and these can get out of hand pretty quickly in South America; so I wasn’t taking any chances. I may go back upon my return to the city.

Hereafter I went to see the Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen church. This is a magnificent red and cream coloured building. This decoration is used both on the inside and outside the church. The altar is a large mosaic. The stained glass windows are different from most which usually display bible scenes or biblical figures. These are of nature and repeated in the windows.

The next stop was the Botero Museum. Botero is one of the most famous Colombian artists. He paints still lives of fruit and, most famously, of overly large personalities. Note in the photos of the artwork how the kids are all painted with freakishly adult faces- it is unnerving!!

The exhibits also include works of other famous artists such as Picasso, Klimt & Monet.

The streets of the historic centre are also filled with beautiful colonial buildings, making it nice to just walk around. There is also a great deal of very good street art around the city, which is noticeable all the way from the airport.

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Ecuador South America

Galapagos Snorkelling

Snorkelling in the Galapagos is superb!! I miss the days that we had three snorkels in one day!! Those were epic! 

Here are a few pictures, some a bit blurry but will still give you an idea of the diversity!  

Thanks so much Pete! I would have none if not for your camera and skills! 

Categories
Ecuador South America

Pacific Coast

Missing warm weather and heading towards Isla de la Plata, I made my way to Montanita. This was my first stop from Guayaquil. Montanita is known for its huge part scene. It is also pretty lax on drugs and one can buy weed muffins at any street corner really. There are loads of clubs, all pumping the music, mainly techno or reggaeton. I didn’t go out on my first night, but decided that I couldn’t leave the part town without going out to party.

On night two I went out with a whole load of girls from the hostel. Apparently girls are a rarity in the hostel…so who knows how six of us ended up together?  We first went out for delicious espresso martinis- which I had discovered earlier on in the day. We then carried on down to Cocktail Alley- where it is 3 USD per cocktail. It was around midnight that we went to one club, which we didn’t settle in and so went to another. I can’t say I really got into the groove much… the music was very mixed up. When one of the girls decided that she was going back, I decided to join her- this was around 3am.

When we returned to the hostel; the owner; who was still awake; asked if we felt the earthquake that just occurred a few minutes ago- we had not. It was the earthquake that shook the Peruvian jungle.

This morning I left to go to Las Tunas- a very quiet beach village north of Montanita. I walked around the little town much more than I would have wanted as the GPS location was incorrect on booking.com! It was very-very quiet especially since it was Sunday. I took the quiet time to catch up on blogging and to do some planning before heading north to Puerto Lopez early the next morning.

I got into my hostel early-at 8:30- had breakfast and headed out to find water. I had to meet up with my tour operator at 09:20. I was missing Galapagos and snorkelling a lot!! So I decided to head to another
“poor man’s Galapagos”. This is in the form of Isla de la Plata, about 1.5 hours by speed boat from Puerto Lopez. The seas were rough on the way in and back probably worse. This is allegedly not normal and has occurred since the earthquake. I was pretty sure that I had shrunk by a centimetre due to the force of the landing of the boat back on the water- but was better off than the people at the back of the boat who were drenched in sea water to boot. It was like a washing machine back there! We saw a pod of bottlenose dolphins on the way to the island, but unfortunately nothing on the return trip.

Upon arriving we are in the bay where the walking trails start- and we have a family of three sea turtles and some damsel fish say hello. We have a wet landing and head off for about 2 hour walk. At the look out the group spilt into two, depending on which walk you chose- I went down the coast. Isla de la Plata is named this for two reasons- all the white bird shit made it shine like silver (Plata) and a grounded ship once lost silver that was littered across it’s beaches. I think I like the second reason!

The forest on the island –which is continental and not volcanic like the Galapagos Islands- is what is called dry tropical forest.  As the rainy season is coming to an end it will get drier. The trees are not dead, just dormant. It was great to see loads of blue footed boobies again –and they are looking for mates at the moment so we had many mating dances. We also saw frigate birds and a few tropic birds.

The coastline of the island is pretty dramatic, and unfortunately littered with large plastic containers.

We headed back to the boat, had lunch –just sandwiches- and went off to snorkel in a quiet bay. The fish life is pretty good here; even saw a couple of species that I had not seen in the Galapagos. One was dark, nearly black with white polka dots and another pod of what looked like baby sword fish. After we were all on board though, it turned out that one of the girls was stung by something like a jelly fish- or maybe something else and had blisters down her arm. She said it felt nearly like electricity. Ouch!

We hunkered down to another hard core return journey!

I had fallen asleep pretty early after that exciting day, and did my last Ecuadorian bus trip- to Manta- the next morning after breakfast. I arrived about three hours later and pretty much chilled in the hotel. I wanted to finalise a few things before my flight to Quito early the next day and later on in the day, to Bogota, Colombia.

Categories
Ecuador South America

Guayaquil

I had decided that I would head over to the Pacific Coast in Ecuador, before heading back to Quito and then Bogota. 

The trip from Cuenca to Montanita is 7 hours though and I preferred to break up the journey. Approximately half way is where one finds Guayaquil. It is the largest city in Ecuador and has a bad reputation for crime. There is a huge disparity between rich and poor people who live here. 

I just stayed one night, on the Promenade and spent a few hours waking around and enjoyed an early morning run. The people were pleasant and I didn’t have any bad experiences. The promenade has been well equipped with kids play areas, cafes and evening entertainment.  It is a pleasant walk around.

It is also fun to visit the main square- which hosts the Iguana Park. There are loads of iguanas who call this park home and who are fed lettuce leaves by keen tourists. You need to be very careful when walking around though- so as not to step on any- their tails are long so beware! 

Categories
Ecuador South America

Ingapirca

On my last day in Cuenca, and once everyone had left, I decided to go visit the largest Incan ruins in Ecuador. Michael had the day off and so he decided to join me. It is a 2.5 hour trip north of Cuenca (which I had passed on the way from Alausi mind you!) 

Ingapirca, translated from Kechwa, means Inca wall. The Incans came across the Canari tribe here and after problems conquering them they decided to live together, Interestingly, the Canari people were a matriarchal society. 

There are distinct sections of the complex that can be split into the tribes. Incans built with their precise stone cutting techniques , using volcanic rocks, while the Canari used river stones. The complex is on the Incan trail that existed across the empire -from Colombia to current northern Chile and Argentina. 

There are storage sheds here, a Moon Temple as well as Sun Temple . There is also a complex water reticulation system.

 

Categories
Ecuador South America

Cuenca

I took the bus from Alausi to Cuenca with two friends I had made at the hostel: Rory from Ireland and Marnie from London. It took just over 4 hours. My Airbnb hosts were super slow to respond to my request, thus I ended up staying at the same hostel that Marnie had booked. This was a very good thing though.

The hostel- El Cafecito- on the Plaza Civica- is rather unique. Tony- the owner- has lived in many countries, and in Ecuador for 23 years. He provides all incoming guests with a great deal of information and all to do activities mapped out on Maps.me. The hostel has many stairs and thus the key delivery system is one that I have not seen before- ring the secret doorbell ring and the key will be parachuted down from the rooftop 🙂 .

Arriving on Saturday afternoon we go to the Mercado, opposite side of the Square, and have pig on a spit with corn, potatoes and onions. This is a staple with all the ladies selling it- we are talking about 10 pigs here! It’s a good feed for 3USD.

Rory and I decide to go out this evening- the last opportunity in the week to go out. We found a club by the river and arrived after 10pm… however it was still pretty quiet. We had a drink or two while the place filled up a bit. We hit the dance floor at about 11pm and never left J Made friends with a group of Ecuadorians who spoke a bit of English and had a jolly good time! As a matter of fact, Rory had a better time, leaving with one of the ladies and was lost in action for the next couple of daysJ Everyone in the dorm was asking me what I had done with Rory that he had not returned . He gained himself and instant wife plus 2 kids!!

Marnie, Chris (German Biologist/Geographer) and I went out to breakfast and coffee and later Marnie and I went to Pumapungo Museum. This museum has some of the most varied displays ever- Inca ruins, aviary, archaeology, art and ethnographics – including the shrunken heads.  No photos allowed inside though.  Follow this link for a short explanation of the head shrinking customs of this tribe here.

 

Cuenca is a small city, relatively speaking, of 600,000 people. Its historical centre is protected under UNESCO world heritage.  It is thus pleasant to walk around and as our group discovered- has great coffee and ice cream shops- to the point where Chris had all our daily coffee stops planned as he is coffee crazy! I’m not sure where I should be having coffee now 🙂

With all our socialising there isn’t much time to actually sightsee 🙂  We did however have some time to visit the Panama Hat Museum. Chris, Michael (volunteer at the hostel from USA) and I had an English tour lasting 20 minutes and covering how the hats are made. The hats were named as Panama hats as President Roosevelt had seen them and taken a liking to them when he saw the workers working on the Panama Canal wearing them. It then became critical for Ecuador to let the world know that it was them who actually made these hats, but the name stuck!

The hats are made from palm tree leaf fibres, the finer the fibres, the finer the hat weaving. The most expensive hat ever made took one year (3 hours per day) to make. It is priced at 20 000 USD! There is a considerable difference between the weaves –to the touch and sight.

It was a sad evening when Chris left for his flight, then a couple of hours later Michael, Liza, Swazi and Rory all caught the night bus to Peru. 

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Ecuador South America

Alausi

Alausi is the beginning and ending destination of one of Ecuador’s scenic railway lines: Nariz del Diablo (the Devil’s Nose). The small village is pleasant and has some old railway buildings.

The railway line is one of two in the world that zig-zags down the mountainside. It was built by Costa Ricans and Panamanians and Jamaicans- all prisoners. During this time over 2,500 people died during its construction due to yellow fever, malaria and explosives accidents.

The track is very short- 12km with an elevation drop of 150m. The locomotive pulls and pushes the wagons up/ down and across the zig zags.

The train also stops in the village of Simbame where locals perform dances for the passengers. There is also a small museum where the traditions of the local villagers are explained. The dances are energetic and fun. The costumes are, as usual, very colourful and embroided with beautiful motifs. 

The return trip only lasts 30 minutes.

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Ecuador South America

Banos

Banos is well known as Ecuador’s adventure capital as well as thermal pools. It is set in a valley, under a volcano which destroyed the town after each of the three major eruptions it had in recent history. The town is pleasant enough- set up for tourism. For a strange reason you can also buy jungle trips here. Why is it strange- well because the packages are for lodges in the north east of the country- at least 17 hours travel from here?

A few hours after my arrival it started raining- and remained as such until late the next day! I booked a Chiva (truck) trip for the next day to do the Rutas de la Cascadas. It was the oddest trip that I have ever done. The trucks are fitted with benches, painted with colourful motifs and have super loud music blaring from huge speakers in the back- one even had disco lights?! The rain persisted the whole morning and thus we got somewhat wet as the sides of the truck were not covered.

The first sight is the hydro dam- which has some gates open to impressive volumes of water flowing out downstream. The waterfalls look good with the rain and many start from the mountain tops –which are cloud covered.

We also stop at a few zipline activities- which are good value if you are into that sort of thing. 500m zipline was only 10USD.

Later we stop at a sweet factory. The region is also known for artisanal hard candies.

We finally reach the cherry on top of the cake- Pailon del Diablo – the best waterfall near town. When walking alongside the river-or white waters that feed this waterfall, you already get an eery sense of the sheer volume and power held here! One crosses down two suspension bridges and down a series of stairs to be right behind the water- it is surreal! Loud and extraordinary volumes of water pass a narrow neck above. Every now and then a small rock shoots out into the ether as the force of the water dislodges it.

This has not been the largest waterfall I have seen; however, it was mighty impressive! The videos do the best of capturing the power!

The next day the weather was looking hopeful, but still with low cloud. I waited for the sun to try and burn off the low clouds for a while and then grabbed the 13h00 bus to Casa del Arbol (The Treehouse) which has huge swings with great views. As we gained altitude though the views disappeared with cloud cover. Much of the scenery was only visible for a quick time. I then caught the bus back to the cross lookout above Banos and walked the rest of the way back into town.

It was of course very ironic that on the day I was leaving the weather was clear, beautiful and sunny!

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Ecuador South America

Otavalo

Unfortunately, due to the setup of the transport network I needed to go back south to Quito before heading north to Otavalo! There are no direct buses between the two. The buses also leave from different bus stations, so I needed to grab a taxi between the two as well.

I arrived in Otavalo and checked into my accommodation where I met up with Gina- from Arizona. She was actually on both buses with me from Mindo- and now we were neighbours. We went to grab some dinner and decided to go out dancing that night. I was super keen as I have had an urge for dancing for a while now. We went out at around 9pm to hunt a place down. It took a while- at first there was nothing – then we walked in the opposite direction and found the night club district. The first one was a disappointment – so Gina grabbed a Corona, finished it and we tried another locale. We had seen more people in the club originally. It’s hard to tell though as most keep their music loud and doors closed- so you don’t know how busy it is inside!

This club was much better and we stayed there for the night. The DJ was handing out free beers to those doing a good job of working the crowd and pulling moves…and I got one!! Hahahaha- shock horror- I know! As I don’t drink beer though, Gina had it. I had a tough time convincing Gina to stay until midnight…even though we both had an afternoon nap, so we left a few minutes before. It was interesting to see how everyone got dressed though- there were business men and women in their attire, youngsters in jeans etc- casual, then there were several ladies who were in traditional attire. These are beautifully embroided white blouses, golden beaded necklaces and long skirts. A real mix!

The next morning was Otavalo’s main event- a huge market that sprawls across Ponchos Plaza and all the streets leading to it. The Saturday market is super large and important for locals and tourists alike.

There is a huge variety of items for sale and we spend some time shopping, looking and being offered every item imaginable to buy.

 

That night I go out to the same club again- but alone this time as young Gina was all tired out. The club area was just 4 blocks away from where we were staying, so that was handy! The night was good and I was invited to join a few of the local groups of friends as we danced through the night. I had to leave a t a reasonable time though as I was off to hike early the next morning.

 

I wake up at 5am on Sunday due to noise, not impressed as I needed some more sleep. I headed off to the bus stop to catch a bus to Cotacachi   from where I would catch a taxi to Laguna Cuicocha to hike around the circumference of the caldera. Upon arriving in Cotacachi I started raining… more and more. So I figured I would try and wait it out. I did so by some shops near the terminal; where a guy decided that propositioning me at 07h30 was appropriate and having a beer at this time was a good plan. I just laughed it off and eventually left when he didn’t give up. Mind you; I have never heard as bad a pickup lines as this fella tried to use (in very bad and patchy English). I found a great coffee shop though and had two cappuccinos in peace while I was giving up on the idea of actually hiking.

 

The weather actually improved though and the sun came out for a little while, so I grabbed a taxi and went off to the lake. I asked the driver to come back and pick me up in 5 hours- the expected duration of the walk.

I’m glad that I decided to do the walk as it was really great scenery and the weather improved –until the end when it started drizzling again. The walk is pretty and pretty tough. Mainly due to the altitude, stairs and many up hills. It is at an altitude of 3,400m and 3,700m. There are great views into the caldera, of the two islands inside and then farmlands on the outside of the volcano. The caldera was created 800 years ago and has been filling up with water since then. The path is also lined with wonderful wild flowers and orchids.

I was pleasantly surprised to actually have the taxi driver pick me up a little earlier than planned- and where we said. (It is about 20minutes drive to the closest village where one can catch the bus.)

After that walk I grabbed the bus back to Otavalo, went to my hostel, grabbed my bags and went back to the bus station to grab a bus to Quito. The queue for the tickets was at least 150 people long (it was Mother’s day and hence the busyness). It took a while to get a ticket but at least the bus company seemed to have an endless supply of busses and drivers and they left as they were filled!

I had arranged a pickup with the nice Uber lady from the bus terminal to city center – which was good as it was dark when I got it.

I spent the next couple of days in Quito mainly catching up on blogging and figuring out what I will do next.

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Ecuador South America

Mindo

It’s hard to give up the good things in life-so it was the same group and Marc, and an older couple from Australia –all from the latest Galapagos group- who went for a day trip to Mindo from Quito. I grabbed all my gear as I was going to get dropped off and stay for a couple of nights; while the others were off to Lima.

After a 2 hour trip we got to the first stop- Tarabita- a simple cable car that is powered by a Nissan engine. We take the cable car across the ravine and go for a two hour walk through the rain forest and between a few small waterfalls.  The guys even hopped into one of the pools by the waterfall and slightly froze their bits off J.

The boys and I carried on across and up the ravine, while the others caught the cable car back across.

After the hike we drive a short while to get to the butterfly farm. There is a short and sweet introduction to the lifecycle of the butterfly and then we walk into a netted space where the butterflies are abundant. There are several species – the most attractive being a large sapphire blue colour. There are also cocoons on the display and I witness two butterflies breaking through their cocoons; stretching and drying their wings.

It turns out that Marc was a skilled butterfly whisperer and collected butterflies and passed them along to me while I sat and enjoyed watching them eating banana or just relaxing.

Going through the first enclosure there are high platforms and hummingbird viewing areas. It was the first time I saw hummingbirds- seeing their wings beat as fast as they do is fascinating! They come down to drink sweet water provided in small feeding hangers.

===Funny interlude… we came across an Ecuadorian guide and Dutch tourist agent that we had shared a cable car with in Quito the day before. We had joked that we were stalking them before on the mountain… now they were stalking us.

The garden area also contains incredible flora- flowers that I have not seen before. Most are really large and have flamboyant colouring.

With that colourful part of the day done; a hungry bunch of us headed off to lunch. Then the best part of the day… tour of the local chocolate factory- El Quetzal. A guide took us through the process, we tasted the fresh cocoa seeds, and the dried version as it goes through the process. A walk through the garden revealed the actual flowers of the cocoa plant. The tree produces 3,000 flowers, of which approximately 100 are pollinated by a tiny mosquito! We saw (and smelt) the fermentation boxes as well as drying racks, then went through the roasting process and separation of shells and bean. Finally, the cocoa butter separation and drying (for hot chocolate).

The best part was of course the tasting at the end…yum! I might have gone back the next day for a cappuccino and more brownie 🙂

Like the chocolate- a bitter sweet moment comes to pass- and I have to say goodbye to my travel buddies and hug it out until the next time I might see them somewhere on the road!

I get to my accommodation and make a plan for the next day. I was looking forward to joining a group to do bird watching early the next day. There were however no groups available… and 75USD for a few hours was a bit steep for me. Giving up on that idea I decided to go for a morning run- it was fabulous in the fresh air and at a relatively low altitude of 1,400m. I took the dirt roads to the butterfly farm and along the river, it was refreshing and great to hit the road after such a long time!

I went to the chocolate factory and spent some time around the village. I was hoping to go out that evening, but found out that it was pretty dead in town. The time in Mindo was quiet and relaxing…really pleasant.

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Ecuador South America

Quito

All roads lead to Quito… and I have and will pass it many times during my trip around Ecuador. I flew into the city from Lima, Peru during the Easter period, and thus didn’t see much. I looked forward to do some actual exploring after our return from the Galapagos.

Considering we apparently couldn’t get enough of each other; it was Pete, Angela, Scott and myself that explored Quito (Marc was out conquering Cotopaxi). We took a taxi and dropped me off at the place I was staying for bag drop off and then went out on foot.

We didn’t get very far before we hit a police blockade on our way to Plaza Independencia-all access to the Plaza was closed off by police. We then found out there would be a motorcade in a few minutes- so we waited. It turned out that a large South Korean contingency inclusive of President were on their way, and drove right past us. There were special forces, police, body guards, presidential guards, army and snipers around everywhere. After to formalities though the police allowed us to enter the plaza. This was great as the Plaza was empty… no people in our way!!! Yay!!

The Casa Cultural was also not very busy, so we step inside and walked around the building- it turned out there were great views from the upper floors.

Once we had enough of exploring the center we took a cab to TeleferiQo- which takes you from 3,100m to 4,000m. The temperature changed accordingly and you could feel the thinner air. Pete and I walked up to the swing and had a good view from there. We got back to the cable car just before the weather turned nastier and wetter.

We went back into the city, direct to the Basilica of the National Vow. Scott and Angela had already seen it and thus went back to the hotel. Pete and I went exploring. The building is absolutely magnificent, and it is unique in that the gargoyles are not your usual gothic style, but are actually birds and animals endemic to Ecuador. We first walk around the outside, then hold our breath to go up to the very top viewing tower. The way is through a wobbly wooden bridge across the very top ceilings of the basilica. Then up a series of mighty steep and narrow stairways. It doesn’t help that we both have a fear of heights… but hey… it was well worth the effort for the view!

The inside of the Basilica was very dramatic yet simple at the same time. Many of the stainless glass windows were being restored. The others are fabulous and host a great level of detail.

That evening we were meeting for drinks and dinner at Plaza Foch- the modern part of the city. I got an Uber pick up from a lovely lady who spoke English… and the first thing she asked me was why I was staying where I was. She said that the street was well known for prostitution…oh well!! Oops! The old city center is a place where you do not go out at night…and so I didn’t plan to- just as well!

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Ecuador South America

Galapagos 16

The dreaded last day is here!! I’m already having snorkelling withdrawal symptoms knowing that I won’t be able to for a while! We have breakfast scheduled at 05h00. So no sleeping in for us! We are off to see the tortoises; at the same farm we went to a week ago- but a first for the newer passengers.

Its then time to say good bye…But not for too long with some plans being made to travel and discover Quito / Mindo together in the next few days. We fly out of Baltra airport, the same one we landed in two weeks ago.

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Ecuador South America

Galapagos 15

We have a long navigation from Isla Genovesa to the south and Plaza Islas. The morning walk after breakfast was to discover more land iguanas and see how the cactus revegetation on the island was going. Many cacti have been over-eaten by growing iguana population. It takes them hundreds of years to grow as tall as they are here- so it is a slow process.

There is a somewhat incredible sighting on this island for us- we witness an iguana feeding on a petrel. Our guide informs us that this has been suspected for a while but very rarely seen –all he has left behind are the wings. We witness the other iguanas eating the flowers off of some of the vegetation. They do this as not to destroy the whole plant, and thus their food source!

This island also has an interesting geology- where a portion of the island is pushed up limestone which happened in one sudden event. This happened before on another island where fishermen who were in the area when the event occurred reported seeing sea turtles, fish and other species on the pushed up land- they obviously couldn’t believe their eyes!

On Santa Fe Island we have a snorkel off the dinghy in a bay… it is our last snorkel for the trip!!!! NOOOOOOO 🙁 The sea lions might have know this though and we enjoy playing with them one last time. We have a good variety of fish and say goodbye to them. 

There is a protected bay with superb clear water and we have a short panga ride here before our wet landing on the beach filled with sea lions. There is no snorkelling here due to the amount of sea lions and the always angry alpha males! We are rewarded in seeing stunning schools of spotted eagle rays and a large black tip reef shark.

The afternoon walk is pleasant and an opportunity to see more land iguanas and birds. It is specifically tailored to trying to spot the only endemic owl to the Galapagos. We strain our eyes for a long time and see nothing! Well we do see petrels- the owl’s favourite meal – but didn’t see any being snatched for lunch. 

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Ecuador South America

Galapagos 14

During the night we sail to Genovesa Island- in the north of the Galapagos Archipelago. We have a wet landing in Darwin Bay which is filled with nesting swallow tail gulls, frigate birds, red footed boobies, Nazca boobies and we even see a striated heron. There are several semi grown chicks…fluffy down between adult feathers and faces that only a mother could love!

There is a large group of male frigate birds that are in the shrubs and every time a female or two fly over they all burst into whistling and blowing their sacs up to attempt to attract a lovely lady. One male had three juvenile females around him, that would not be ready to mate yet… Pete made the comment that the male should stop flirting with the teenagers 🙂 .

We went snorkelling off the beach, but kept a wide berth from an agro alpha male sea lion. The main purpose was to try and see some baby sharks- white tips to be more specific. Some of the group did see them, others not.

After lunch we go snorkelling at Darwin’s Bay, off the panga. We have a great long snorkel with an exciting new species of fish we haven’t seen before- they have a sapphire neon sparkle, the small ones are nearly totally sapphire and larger ones have bright dots on them. We also see Idol Moorfish- they have a long white tail fin- similar to the red billed tropic birds. 

Once the snorkel is complete we get our dry gear on, to climb to the Prince Phillip Step lookout. There are around 350 steps to the top, and the journey is broken up with stories from our guide- and he even magically finished one! He was really bad at starting them, then getting side tracked and finishing somewhere else entirely. I still need to Google some documentaries about the Baroness and the toothless Germans… crazy people! They removed all their teeth and became vegetarians?!? Like I said… I need more info!

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Ecuador South America

Galapagos 13

We travel to the Island of North Seymour overnight. There are five people leaving us today- many of those that only joined us 5 days ago. We have a pre-breakfast walk to see nesting frigates and blue footed boobies. Several of the male frigates are puffed up and I note the black dots on the red sacs, close to the body of the males. My favourite, and most special moment is a couple of blue footed boobies who were doing a mating dance. The male displays his blue feet, makes whistling sounds and does wing displays. The female first ignored him for a little while then joined in the dancing….clearly the male was her type 🙂 a short while later the male presented her with some sticks, and she did likewise. They began piling them in the same location as a team… I think we have a match! The video of the mating dance (>600MB) is again large but great to watch!! 

The island also has many land iguanas- which is the first time that the new additions to the group see these. 

After breakfast some of our passengers depart with hugs and “see you laters”, and we stay on the boat as there isn’t much of a town or community to visit while the others are dropped off at the airport and another five replacements are picked up. Our guide told us to behave…so we amended the afternoon plan for when the others return to include shirtless Zumba, dancing,open bar and crafts and tattoos in the evening 🙂 . 

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Ecuador South America

Galapagos 12

A panga ride was the first order of business at Floreana Island. We went out to see some sea turtles while they slept in a protected bay. The sea lion pups also use it as a play area as it is too shallow for the sharks.

We then have a wet landing at the post office. Now calling it a post office is not entirely correct. It is a barrel. The concept works as follows: tourists bring their own post cards, complete with address but no stamps. These are kept in a Ziploc bag to protect them from the elements. The next load of tourists come on shore and “post” their card and take one or many from the bag and post them from their home countries, or anywhere really.

We snorkel off the same beach that we landed on for the post office. The most exciting sighting were of sea turtles. There were mainly smaller fish around.

Corona del Diablo (Devil’s Crown) is the location of our afternoon snorkelling trip. It is a collapsed caldera a few hundred meters from the island of Floreana. The waters were a little choppy and currents stronger than we have experienced. You know that it is going to be a good dive when you spot a white tip reef shark within the first minute! The fish and life around the rock faces of the caldera were great. Lots of colourful variety and we all would have liked to stay longer! It is also the first time that we saw a yellow puffer fish. We also saw the cutely named chocolate chip starfish- it is yellow with thick, short, black spikes that look like choc chips.

We have a few minutes to change into our walking clothes to visit Punta Cormorant. There is a large brackish lake here that has a few flamingos, we also see some fly catchers and finches. We are visited on the beach by a heron, who is surrounded by people trying to photograph it and it doesn’t move at all. As a matter of fact, it looks ready for more photos-definitely a poser. It is still there when we return from the second beach. The second beach is the consistency of flour and white, giving the sea a turquoise blue colour. As we make our way along the beach I spot objects in the waves- 2 spotted eagle rays and a black tipped reef shark! A little further down I spotted several sting rays- some smaller and then a large adult! A lot to discover in a relatively small area.

Our guide also brings the micro plastics that have washed up on the beach to our attention and we pick some up on the return trip. They are really small and no one noticed them until we really looked for it- and then you can see it everywhere!

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Ecuador South America

Galapagos 11

We woke up to Gardner Bay, Espanola Island. It also has white sand beaches and turquoise water. We have a leisurely walk on the beach and look out for the Galapagos hawks which are not wanting to come out. There are many sea lions on the beach which we look forward to swimming with later …but none of them were keen to get in the water! Our swim thus turned into an opportunity to cool off and not swim with the sea lions.

A further 30-minute boat trip got us to our off the panga snorkelling destination. The waters were clear, we swam close to the rocks and got to play with many sea lions here. One needs to remember that due to the fact that the animals here don’t really have any predators and weren’t hunted, they don’t have a fear for humans.

In the afternoon we went for a walk at Suarez Point, still on Espanola Island. This is the only place where you can see the waved albatross. It is only April to November that these birds come in to mate, lay eggs and look after the chicks. We thus saw a few birds on eggs, a couple of mating dances. This are fabulous to watch, there is feet lifting, wing flapping and sword fighting with the beaks. The males instigate the dancing and if the female mirrors the movements then we have a match! The video file is very large (>400MB) but well worth watching!

We also see Nazca/masked boobies with some young chicks, as well as swallow tails and red beaked tropic birds. The tropic birds have a long white tail feather, which frigate birds sometimes pull on to get them to drop or regurgitate fish! The abundance and variety of birdlife was extraordinary and we watched them all flying around while we sat on the cliffs of the island.

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Ecuador South America

Galapagos 10

It was a packed day all up with two walks and three snorkels!

Our morning walk included Punto Pitt (North San Cristobal Island)- well known as the only place where you can see all the booby species that Galapagos has to offer: blue footed, brown red footed, white red footed (these are same but have different colour variations) and the Nazca or masked booby. It was great to see so many boobies nesting- the blue footed boobies nest on the ground and the red footed boobies nest in the trees. They also eat different food and thus do not compete for mates, nesting sites or food. It was also our first opportunity to see the red footed boobies for the trip, which was exciting. Though most of them were fairly far away.

When we got back on the boat we got ready for a snorkel off the pangas. There was not too much to see though and with strong currents our guide pulled us in early and we returned on board. 

After this we were off to Cerro Brujo (Warlock Hill), a magical beach with white sands and turquoise waters. The sand here is organic and this holds a very steady temperature- which is also good for sea turtle nests. We walked along the beach and saw marine iguanas, pelicans, brown terns and a baby black tipped reef shark. There were also horrid horseflies that were biting!

We did a snorkel off the beach after our walk, the most exciting thing that I saw was a sea snake- banded grey and black. We did not have very clear water as the tide was coming in and the waves were starting to enter the bay.

It was a short navigation to Leon Dormido / Kicker Rock. It is two rocks that rise 150m above the level of the sea. We keep close to the rocks and see an abundance of fish life and turtles- which is a first for our new guests. There is also a channel between the two rocks which we can swim through which proves super exciting! As I was swimming more towards that centre of the passage I saw two large spotted eagle rays and underneath them three hammerhead sharks!!  I was delighted to see these species! A few minutes later I saw a large black tip reef shark and another hammerhead before getting back on the panga! This snorkel was fabulous! And the waters were so still, except for a slightly strong current through the passage.

The eagle rays were gliding effortlessly through the water –with their “wings” moving ever so slightly. I could not spot the hammerheads again after I surfaced to tell others of my find.

We arrive back into Puerto Moreno in the evening and stay until after midnight before sailing south.

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Ecuador South America

Galapagos 9

We arrive at the island of San Cristobal and the capital of the Galapagos Islands; Puerto Baquerizo Moreno in the early morning. We have time to visit the interpretation center which gives us the natural and human history of the island. It is well put together and interesting but does not take long to get through.

We then have to split with the half of the group that are leaving us after their 7-day trip. Unfortunately this means that my Norwegian and Irish friends are leaving…a good reason to catch up in Bergen and Dublin in the future :). They go off to the airport while we stroll around town, then meet up with them later to say our final good byes.

A funny story: the airport is right next to the town, so locals go to the airport a few hours before fly out time; check in, do a bag drop and get their boarding passes. They then go home and only come back to the airport when they hear & see their plane landing.

We head back to the boat to await the arrival of our new passengers and wonder what the tide will bring in.

The new group is made up of primarily Canadians and New Zealanders, and also a considerably older group but still fit. We also get a new (hot-hot) 🙂  guide and some crew members.

We have a late lunch, as we waited for the group and then embark on our first two activities: A snorkel around Isla Lobos (Sea Lions) which was lovely and cooling, though we did not spot any new fish or water species. What was more interesting was what was happening in the air; where frigate birds were gathered and many males were showing off their inflated red sacs to females to impress them in order to mate.

The walk on Isla Lobos afterwards was great as we got to see nesting blue footed boobies and the mating rituals of the frigate birds up close. The male frigates perch on the trees and then inflate their red throat sacs to impress the females that are flying overhead. If one of them likes what she sees she will perch next to him. If another male wants to interfere they will fight with the male completion and make him fly off with his sac still partially inflated. This is dangerous if he perches in another tree and possibly punctures his sac on a branch) these birds are not used to flying with their sacs inflated). This will not kill the bird but will have him out of mating action for the season as he will not be able to attract a mate. 

We also note a nest that has been abandoned by a blue footed booby couple with three eggs in it. The mother would have been concerned that she would not be able to feed her hatchlings and thus abandoned the eggs.

From Isla Lobos we need to travel back to Puerto Moreno to overnight until after midnight due to navy regulations and we commence our trip to the north of San Cristobal Island (Punto Pitt) after 01h00.

Pete (fellow traveller), Paula (Su Chef) and I decide to take that opportunity that we are in port to head out on a panga to town for an hour and a half. It was a quiet walk and a look as to what was happening and finished off with a beer and I had a fried ice cream for the first time. It was OK, but I think I prefer the traditional type 🙂 It was good to get away though and cured a bit of cabin fever with some guests. 

Categories
Ecuador South America

Galapagos 8

Our day started with a 2-hour return walk to Tortuga Bay. However, there are no tortugas (sea turtles) there any more due to exploitation of the sand dunes in the in the 1960s-1980s when the sea sand was used for building. The people didn’t realise that it was also an important sea turtle nesting beach. The walk is through an easy paved walkway and along the beach. Bathing has been forbidden here due to strong currents and in an attempt to lure the sea turtles back. Across the beach and around the corner is a lovely protected bay where people can swim.

In the afternoon we take a 30-minute bus trip to a tortoise breeding center/farm (Rancho El Manzanilto). It is a short walk around the property and observing tortoises of all ages, including one that was over a meter tall with his neck stretched out.

Categories
Ecuador South America

Galapagos 7

It was a little bumpy on our night trip to Puerto Villamil, Isabella Island and we had many sick passengers, including my roommate who threw up in the sink and it stayed full the whole night… I decided I had enough of the smell and went to sleep on the deck chairs upstairs, outside. Though sleep it was not! 

Our first trip was before breakfast to Tinoteras which is a nursery for white tip reef sharks. We took a quick panga trip and were ready for what was supposed to be approx. 1 hour walk. Three minutes later we walked alongside the nursery to find only a few sea lions playing and absolutely no sharks- it seems that we had seen all the little ones right along our boat, just before we left. There were about 13 of them there!  To make it all a little more ironic our walk was cut short due to trail closure for marine iguana breeding. So a 10-minute walk all up, if that.

After breakfast some of us got prepared to take the bus up to the start point of the hike to Sierra Negra- the second largest caldera in the world. The bus trip is 45minutes and we went from a super-hot sunny climate to overcast, misty and drizzly at the start of the trail. Again we found out that one of the lookouts is closed, and so we only saw lookout 2 and 3. We had about 1.5 minutes of OK-ish visibility before the low hanging clouds covered everything up again!

What we did see was impressive- many fumaroles billowing steam and a crater filled with hardened lava. This volcano last erupted in June 2018. It was a shame that we couldn’t see its full impressive size.

In the afternoon we go into Puerto Villamil –our last stop on Isla Isabela to spend some time in another Tortoise Sanctuary and Breeding Center. We were lucky enough to see two tortoises mating- and the female trying very hard to escape! Our guide had picked up this behaviour by the sound that the male tortoise makes every time he pushes in- a low grunting. We then had a short walk to try and find some more flamingos but only got 2 more.

The group had 1.5 hours of free time in the small town (2,000 people) and we spent it cooling down with beer and ice cream. We did try the local drink- coco loco – cana / moonshine made from sugar cane and coconut water served in said coconut. Not a favourite for me, as I don’t like coconut water. It was mighty strong though!