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Colombia South America

Zipaquira

On my last day in Bogota, Colombia and South America I decided to visit the salt cathedral in Zipaquira. It is about 45minutes to the northern bus terminal and then another 1.5 hours north to Zipa as the locals call it.

The town is actually very pleasant, with several pedestrian streets lined with colonial buildings. There are several squares one which boasts the cathedral.

The salt cathedral is located in the old underground workings of a salt mine. It was very busy as it was a weekend, not only a weekend but long weekend. 

Everyone grabs an audio guide and walks down through the main tunnel into the mine. The tour starts with all 14 stations of the cross. I had expected that the stations would be more ornate. However, they were simple representations of the cross at the various stages of the stations. Many of them had the old workings /tunnels as their back drop.

It is amazing that the miners spent their free time forming these carvings underground, which the Colombian people voted as their first wonder of the country.

After the stations you walk through under a dome structure towards the actual cathedral, where services are still held at midday every Sunday. The dome is 11m in diameter and 7 miners worked on the structure.

From here you can see the 16m tall cross the forms the backdrop to the altar. It spans 10m and weighs 16 ton.

There is a notable statue of Pope Francis on the side of the altar.

At the start of the aisle is a carving, by a local artist, depicting the creation of man. It is the same scene as is depicted by Michelangelo in the Sistine Chapel, though only focusing on the hands/ part bodies.  

The artist made God’s hand 3x bigger than Adam’s. He also avoided giving God a face, so that the person looking at the work can put their own image to it. There are also representations of wind, earth, water and fire in the sculpture.

The workings of the mine cover the 1km2 of the salt deposit, in 3 different levels. The top levels used room and pillar mining, while the bottom level, where the newest cathedral is situated used long room method. Mining on the 3rd level commenced in 1979.

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Colombia South America

Santa Marta

Santa Marta is mainly a transport hub, not particularly a city that is visited very much unless you have it as a stop before catching a bus or plane. 

I spent a few hours walking around, the city also has a historic part though is not as colourful as Cartagena as an example. t was pleasant enough for a quick stay.

The airport runway is right along the beach- something unique about the city. 

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Colombia South America

Tayrona NP

After Minca I caught a mini bus back to Santa Marta, then immediately went from here to Palomino- 2 hours and many, many stops away!! Palomino is east of Tayrona National Park and I decided to make it my base before and after the park as I found a great hostel there- quiet, lots of space, lots of birds and no one else there!! Palomino has a very long beach with good waves for surfing, though the water is relatively muddy in comparison to the calm Caribbean waters that I got used to.

I repacked my hiking bag to leave the big bag behind and headed on the bus the next day to the secondary entrance to the park- western most one- from Calabazo village. By the time I had breakfast and the bus dropped me off it was 10am and hot!!! Then I found out that we are in high season apparently- all of June and July is high season even though it wasn’t school holidays yet! This means an even higher cost for foreigners than normal…oh the joys!!

I had a 3-hour hike from the gate to Playa Brava. The hike is mainly uphill through the forest and then a steep downhill to the beach. The forest is dotted with large wild figs and the scary sounds of howler monkeys! I remember them from the Amazon- 10 years ago.  The ground is also covered with dead leaf debris and I couldn’t help but wonder when I am going to step on a viper of some type???

With the heat and humidity, I was relieved that a fairly large portion of this hike was in shady forest.

I arrived at the beach at 1pm- and picked a hammock for the night. There was an undercover circular area where there were about 10 of them, hanging centrally from a middle pole and radiating out. I dropped my bag and headed to the water to wash off all the dust which, mixed with the sweat on my legs had turned to mud. As I walked out of the enclosure I said hello to a couple who were lying on the grass and realised it was the Canadian /Australian couple that I had spent the trip to Minca with!! So we caught up on the last few days. They only came down for the day- and wished they stayed…same conversation we had relating to Minca!

I was looking forward to a quiet time at the beach until two large groups walked in…. at least there is plenty of beach place for everyone to be out of each other’s way 🙂

When everyone was having dinner I grabbed a chair on the beach and checked out the stars- haven’t seen them in ages!! The sky was fairly cloudless and the moon had not come out yet.

It was my first time sleeping in a hammock- let’s say it was not a comfortable night!! Great to relax in, but in my opinion not great to sleep in. I woke up with the sun, had “breakfast” of granola biscuits and an apple on the beach and headed off towards Cabo San Juan –the most popular beach in the park and thus generally loaded with people! Though I intended to camp at a campsite east from there.

It was due to be a 2.5-hour hike to get here. The route starts out flat, through a river bed, then climbs for most of the way- a tough slog!! It was made tougher by the fact that I got really bad chaffing from the day before and I was raw! The salty sweat made it a lot worse- and in my great discomfort I decided that I would walk all the way to the eastern most camp site from where you can catch a shuttle to the main road, to catch a bus back to Palomino and spend the night at my hostel. The hike to Cabo San Juan goes past the nudist beach first- I arrived here to the scurry of 5 guys who were naked and didn’t expect anyone to come out of the forest –clearly!! They all giggled like girls and ran for the bushes! Then casually walked past me in their board shorts. I just laughed.

At this stage I was walking like a cowboy to try alleviate some pain, though it wasn’t really working. I reached Cabo San Juan in over 3 hours- so my pace was slower than planned. I had a snack of more granola biscuits and enjoyed the view and the beach without too many people, then carried on towards Arrecife. Luckily the first part of this was flat- a welcome change. Though there was a large increase in volume of people coming in for the day- hordes of people trekking in their flip flops. There are many stairs across the large boulders that are a feature of the landscape as well as through the forest.

After a much longer than recommended walk/wobble I got to the camp site, had a bit of a rest and headed towards Canaveral… where the shuttle is! This took about 1 ¼ hours… even though the recommended time was 50min. However I made it!

I had been looking forward to a drink since early this morning… so when I hit the town I figured I would grab lunch and a drink. However, town was strange- super quiet- despite it being lunch time. All the shops and business were closed and few people on the streets. It turns out that there were some pamphlets handed out- however I cannot get to what was on them exactly; however, it threatened everyone to close their business down- not sure why though? Luckily there was a restaurant, part of a hostel that had not closed, so I grabbed late lunch there and ordered a drink- to which the waitress replied that they had no one to make it!!!!!

The next day the businesses were still closed. I took the bus to Santa Marta in the morning as I had a flight the next day. At least Santa Marta was operating as normal.

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Colombia South America

Minca

Minca is a shortish ride by minibus from Santa Marta. I decided to come here for two reasons:

  1. Run away from the heat and humidity of the coast (though this was only successful for night time temperatures –at least nicer to sleep in!)
  2. Some hiking in the rain forest

The village reminds me a lot of Mindo in Ecuador- and has the same selling points: rain forest, birding, chocolate, coffee and some adventure activities.

I took a hike to La Candeleria coffee/chocolate factory. I did this with the main purpose of having chocolate J However they had plenty of coffee beans for sale but not what I came for! It was a tough, steep uphill climb most of the way- I was sure that I had burnt up all that chocolate I was going to consume!! Hehehehe- or not. The hike does provide nice views of the valley and you can see the city of Santa Marta on the coast. It was also nice as there was not much traffic on the road due to it being a Sunday.  

 

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Colombia South America

Corales Islas del Rosario

After being on the go for several weeks nonstop I decided that I need some chill time and decided to do this in Rosario National Park, near Cartagena. I also didn’t want to worry about much, so I booked it as a bit of a package tour.

The pickup was an hour late- always a good start. There was literally a bus load of people. Our first stop was Playa Blanca- not part of the park but a very popular spot for holiday makers and weekenders. To be quiet honest, I am not sure why?? The whole beach is packed with what can be most accurately described as shacks- all pretty rackety construction. There is no running water or electricity and there is also lots of rubbish everywhere. Clearly the infrastructure cannot keep up with the influx of people. You need to pay for absolutely everything- chair hire, or cabanas if you want to part with a lot of money. There are again LOADS of people trying to sell you food to jewellery to clothes. Luckily most of the people are al on a day trip and they disappear at 3-4pm every day, and everything quietens down considerably!

Now, I didn’t go into this without knowledge of the situation- I only stopped here to do a night trip to swim with the phytoplankton that is in a nearby lagoon. There was just another couple and myself, that were staying at the same accommodation that went on a small boat. It’s not like the water glows all the time, it only lets off a glow from the phytoplankton when you jump in or move your arms and legs around. It appears as if you have an aura while you move around – and floating is pretty easy as the water is salty. There was a half moon, so the light variance was not as intense as if there was less light, but was still OK.

The next morning, I was off to Isla Grande- though arranging a boat was a real pain. I think more the distrust of the people organising it. I had to pay 35,000 after being told it was 25,000 pesos by the agency. Then the guy who organised it said it was that expensive because the trip was about 50minutes- which I knew to be bullshit as one of the locals had said it was 20-30minutes the day before.

I got to my accommodation and went for a walk to explore the island a little and find a beach to swim and cool down a little- though the water is really warm, so you don’t technically cool down. There are several beaches around the eastern part of the island- where I was based. I noted that there was also a lot of rubbish here on the island, so much for a national park!

I was glad that it was during the week and low season, so there were few people around.

The next day I went snorkelling -which was good- there is a wide variety of fish, about 100m off the beach. We went out by boat- heaven knows why as you could just swim out there! The fish species were similar to Galapagos, with some different ones I have not seen before. The reef, on the other hand is dead or dying, which is of course a shame. The great thing was that I had the reef to myself for the first hour, with another group arriving later but being pretty far away.

I was hoping that I could get back to Cartagena in the late morning, but it turned out that the information that there are frequent boats was a myth. 3pm was the only boat. Again I had to pay for the trip, but the payment was to the owners of my accommodation, not the boat captain…so I’m sure they skim off some off that too!

In the end the relaxing was good, but I was left with a strong feeling of being ripped off- and just peeved off with that! I don’t think it has been that bad before.

I do not have photos as I took a break from that too 🙂

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Colombia South America

Cartagena

I take a short flight from Medellin to Cartagena, its scenic and passes over green mountains and valleys. I land in the evening and its a short taxi ride to the historic centre, where I will be based. The weather in this region is very hot- about 35C – and humid! So –Caribbean in other words. I need to get used to it as I will be in this type of climate until I hit Europe in essence. It takes only minute to be outside though before you are dripping!

The next day I start off with organising a few days around National Park Corales del Rosario- some beach and do absolutely nothing time! I haven’t had any days off for a while and needed them!

Once this is finalised I head off into the town to explore.

The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site and has many small streets lined with colourful street art and old colonial buildings. Walking around and discovering the little treasures is fun, though the street sellers of absolutely everything are shitting me to tears. I lost count at 40 offers in two hours… and this went on for my whole time!!! I understand that these people are all trying to make a living however it is SUPER irritating!

Due to Cartagena’s geographic location it had been raided and under siege a few times in history. This meant that a fortress was needed- the whole old city is still actually surrounded by old city walls. There is a large fortress built on the hill, with a series of tunnels emanating from the fort to allow the army personnel to blow up the enemy as they got closer to the fortress but prior to penetrating it.

Once I had explored the old part of town I went to the most modern part of Cartagena- Bocagrande. It is filled with high rises and pretty unassuming beaches. It’s not particularly pretty or charming.

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Colombia South America

Medellin

The trip from around the Salento region to Medellin should take 5 hours, with the current roadworks more likely 8 hours but many people that I have met had reported it to last longer than 11!! This cemented my decision to take a flight from Manizales to Medellin.

I had also heard that the airport is about 1 hour from the centre. I was pleasantly surprised to fly over the city centre and land in it… there is also an airport in the centre for smaller planes. This means that I had a quick taxi ride to my accommodation.

I stayed in the well- to- do part of town, filled with restaurants and cafes as well as expensive car sale garages. It was pleasant to walk around. The whole city is spread out, like many South American cities, throughout a large valley and up the mountain sides. It is a good thing then that the city is very well connected with the metro, cable cars and bus lines. The city has a park that has many Botero statues in it (called Botero Park). Botero donated these statues, each valued at 1.5 million USD. These were placed in what used to be a very dicey part of the city. This is an example of democratic transformative art that can be found around the city.

I spent the day walking around the city and visiting the museum of modern art (MAAM). The city is very busy, loads of people and construction happening. There is a much more obvious problem with homeless people in this city than others I have been to.  The next day I joined a walking tour- with the lovely Mari from Realcitytours. The tour gave a good insight into how Medellin went from being the most dangerous city in the world to what it is today. It also gave us an appreciation of life during those very violent times and a little bit of an understanding of Colombians and their current happy state. The peace is still somewhat unstable and uncertain, but is a marked improvement on the past. With more stability come more tourists- about 50 000 per annum, 25 years ago to 5 million now.

There is a chilling tale of violence that took place in San Antonio Square. There was a concert that was taking place in July 1995. Families were attending and enjoying the evening when a bomb exploded. The bomb had been set in a Botero statue of a bird. Botero himself requested the major to keep the blown up bird statue as a reminder of the incident and death that had occurred. He also then made another statue. These two now stand side by side and a are a reminder of the past and hope for the future. This is only one of thousands of examples of violence though.

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Colombia South America

Hacienda Venecia – Coffee Farm

I was pretty excited to be visiting a Colombian coffee farm- it would just take a few trips to get there. I caught a bus from Salento back to Pereira, then from Pereira towards Manizales but asking the bus driver to drop me off at San Peregrino bridge. There is a restaurant here that radios the coffee farm and they send over an old land rover as transport.

Hacienda Venecia was actually recommended to me by the couple that I did the Uyuni trip in Bolivia with. They did the luxury hotel stay while I slummed it in the dormitory- which wasn’t bad any way with only 3 of us in total.

The location is great, with coffee bushes growing along the mountainsides, interspersed with bamboo forests. There are loads of birds to see- and several varieties of humming birds too! The estate has a good deal of hikes that you can wonder around and coffee and chocolate tours. As I have done a good chocolate tour in Mindo, Ecuador I signed up for the coffee tour instead and learned a lot— the next few paragraphs are a pretty detailed account of coffee facts and processing —skip to the photos if you are not keen on the details J

There are two main types of coffee- Arabica (which most of us know) and Canephora. Arabica is about 2/3 of world production and Canephora is the rest. Robusta, belongs to the Canephora family. It is more resistant to diseases and grown at lower altitudes than Arabica. It also has about twice the caffeine of Arabica.

Arabica does have more complex aromas and is more expensive than Robusta.

Seeds are germinated (called matchsticks as that is what they look like); they then grow a pair of rounded leaves- the first and only leaves – hereafter the first pointy leaves appear and the plant is planted into small bags for a few months for further development. The bush grows and is most productive in its 3rd year, production decreases towards the 5th year when the bush is completely cut, about 30cm from the soil. It then lets out new shoots and the process begins again. Each planting can have up to 5 of these cycles (25 years) before the plant is no longer productive, gets gut at the base and burned.

The shrub produces flowers (then seeds) when it is most stress i.e. when there is least water. In this region this is in January, and thus the largest harvest is in October (9 months later). There is a mini harvest in April/May after a drier period in July. However, in between there are fluctuations in rainfall and thus the shrubs flower and seed fairly continuously and thus coffee is picked daily.

This process is entirely by hand. There are approximately 70 permanent workers on the farm and at peak picking this goes up to 500! Pickers are paid per kilogram.

There are two types of drying processes:

  1. Dry process where the whole fruit is dried (seed, peel and muselage)
  2. Wet process where the peel and muselage is removed first. Dry only the seeds. This company uses the wet process.

The processing steps are as follows:

  1. The fruits that are picked daily are transported to the sorting and washing plant.
  2. Fruit that has borers, or air bubbles floats and the better quality sinks.
  3. The fruit is peeled to remove the skin and muselage, and the beans then pass a strainer that will only allow peeled beans through due to size, unpeeled green fruit will be processed differently.
  4. Various tanks are available for splitting the beans into: 1st (sinking of the sinking beans) 2nd (floats of the sinking beans) and 3rd (floats of the floating beans) class.
  5. Two stages of drying occur to get the moisture to 10-12%.
  6. Export beans are stored in 40kg bags, parchment around the beans is only removed just before export or roasting. This parchment is also used as fuel for the drying ovens.
  7. The beans are then sorted by density- lower density beans contain contaminants such as hollow beans and parchment, while higher density beans are best quality –less contaminants.
  8. The beans are then sorted by size (cause size matters J ) Both monster beans and tiny beans are a problem because they burn easily when roasted, and are thus low grade. The best are medium sized beans.

Coffee beans that are going to be exported will go off site to be sorted electronically, then bagged for export, 70kg bags to all countries except Canada who takes their coffee in 45kg bags- the joke was that Canadians aren’t as strong as Colombians.

Export bags contain information on the producer /country number (alphabetical order)

Exporter number and shipment number.

The process of roasting beans is of course most important and is when the flavours and aromas are developed.

The higher the temperature and longer you roast a bean for the more you will hide the flavours-good and bad. This is thus done with 3rd grade beans.

The lower the roasting temperature the fuller the subtle aromas and flavours.

Low temperatures, for a long time bake the bean and produce very dull coffee, while too high a temperature for a short time will only burn the outside.  Beans that are the same colour thus do not necessarily have the same taste as their colour could have been attained by many paths.

 

When beans are roasted the internal temperature of the roaster actually decreases a little as moisture is released, before increasing again. Medium roast coffee- in my opinion – the best way to have 1st grade beans- is the point between what is called the first and second crack. The coffee beans make a popcorn type crackling sound at first crack and like an electric current sound at second crack.

 

Two interesting facts:

Caffeine is broken down at 239C, coffee is not roasted to this temperature and thus the caffeine content of lightly roasted and dark roasted beans is the same. Thus it would be incorrect to refer to coffee as being “caffeine” strong based on its roast, rather than its taste alone perhaps.

Coffee beans are best about 1 week after roasting. For this time period the beans release carbon dioxide and flavours develop. This release of gas is also the reason why some producers make coffee bags for shop sale with valves installed- to release this CO2- not for us to smell it really. The bags that do not have valves are sometimes found to be inflated in the shops- this is due to this gas release.

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Colombia South America

Salento

Salento is situated west of Bogota. A fairly lengthy 6-8 hours by bus, depending on your luck. In order to save time, I flew from Bogota to Pereira, then took a 1 hour bus ride to Salento, with a bunch of people from the plane. The bus driver was actually so kind that he found out where the hostel was that I was staying at was and dropped me off right at the corner so I only had to walk about 100m – not that it was a far walk from the bus terminal anyway!

It is a small village but is super colourful and pleasant. It seems that nearly each house in town has a different colour scheme and decorates the outside of their houses with bright colours. It is really wonderful to see.

A half an hour Jeep trip into the Valley of Cocora is where the hike to see Colombia’s National tree starts. What tree is it you may be asking- the giant wax palms that grow up to 60m in height! The jeep has two benches inside, 6-8 passengers inside and 2-3 hanging off the back step!

The anticlockwise hike starts with a downhill section, then continues through muddy trails – trails that got much muddier as it started raining 10minutes into our hike and continued for the next 2 hours! I did the walk with Tobias- a Swedish fella who has also been travelling for the last 6 months. So we did some note comparing as to what we have seen and what our favourite places were. We did not stop and take the hummingbird detour as it was still raining and we didn’t think any of them would be out, and did see some on the top of the hill- beautiful turquoise green with long tails. Stunning! You can hear them flying past before you see them usually as their fast beating wings make some noise.

The top of the mountain should yield stunning views of valleys and wax palm trees…but with the low hanging clouds all we got was white. Somewhat disappointed, wet and very muddy we carried on, hoping for the best. Eventually as we arrived to a couple of viewpoints we got a good view of the palm forest and were rewarded with the huge palms and great views of the valley.

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Colombia South America

Bogota

I got into El Dorado Airport, Bogota, from Quito. It was an early evening flight, however it took over an hour to get through immigration, so it was after 9pm that I caught a taxi. Luckily there was not much traffic, so it only took 20 minutes to get to my accommodation.

The next day my first visit was to the Gold Museum. It is hailed as an excellent world-standard museum, and I would agree with this rating. The artefacts, divided by tribe, are of such a fine quality and level of detail that it is hard to imagine. The goldsmiths used wax loss methods to make these fine detailed artefacts. Some items were large –used as jewellery and masks as well as chest plates, while others are very fine, short figurines. (No photos)

After this I had some lunch and carried on to the main square. I didn’t spend too much time here though as there was a large demonstration and these can get out of hand pretty quickly in South America; so I wasn’t taking any chances. I may go back upon my return to the city.

Hereafter I went to see the Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen church. This is a magnificent red and cream coloured building. This decoration is used both on the inside and outside the church. The altar is a large mosaic. The stained glass windows are different from most which usually display bible scenes or biblical figures. These are of nature and repeated in the windows.

The next stop was the Botero Museum. Botero is one of the most famous Colombian artists. He paints still lives of fruit and, most famously, of overly large personalities. Note in the photos of the artwork how the kids are all painted with freakishly adult faces- it is unnerving!!

The exhibits also include works of other famous artists such as Picasso, Klimt & Monet.

The streets of the historic centre are also filled with beautiful colonial buildings, making it nice to just walk around. There is also a great deal of very good street art around the city, which is noticeable all the way from the airport.