After a few relaxing days in Tupiza at 2,900m, we start off our 4-day South- West Bolivia adventure. I get picked up from my âhotelâ and taken to another hotel in town to meet my other 3 partners in crime for the trip. The group includes a young German Student and an English/Canadian couple. We have a Spanish speaking driver and English speaking guide.
The first stop was literally just outside of Tupiza and was a testament to the power of water erosion in the area, creating steep, thin rock pillars called Quebrada de Palala. We climb quickly up very windy dirt roads, the corners are taken fairly sharply and drop offs are pretty steep. This is a two-way road but without much passing space. There are of course no guardrails. The views are amazing from the increased elevation and include further examples of water erosion of sandstone. This area is called El Sillar.
During the day we drive through small mining villages. Mines are worked by private miners, generally menâs work and women look after the llama herd. In the photos of the llamas you will note that they have colourful decorations and what look like earrings. As the llamas are a very important part of Altiplano (highland) life in the Andes, they are decorated for carnivals and festivities. The colours also serve as a way to differentiate between the herds of different families.
Lunch was in a small village, with homes open as dining rooms. Here we met up with the other 4 tours that left Tupiza that day. Two others from the same company I used and another two from different companies. We in essence travelled in caravan together for the trip. This was a good plan as we had several breakdowns and it was good to get the assistance and brains of the other drivers to help problem solve and fix. While being in the middle of the desert it is amazing to see the few tools that the driver/ mechanics need to solve the variety of problems. Â Everyone helps, irrelevant of company.
In the afternoon we get to Ruinas de San Antonio. This is a large (2,000 person capacity) town that was set up by the Spanish to mine and process copper, gold and silver. The town also has the ruins of a huge church, which was also ransacked by thieves and had all the art, gold and silver artefacts stolen from it. This was taken as a bad sign and the village was moved a few kilometers away.
It was at this site that we also spotted our first chinchillas. They are very well camouflaged and can only be seen when they move.Â
The sun is setting when we leave, the sunset is colourful and we have a spectacular full moon rise too!
We arrive at our accommodation fairly late and eat dinner at about 21h15. Accommodation is shared, 2 toilets for 12 people and no hot water. Our first stop is at about 4,200m and one can feel the cold and altitude. This village is called Quetana.
