Torotoro National Park is only accessible from Cochabamba- and my only real reason for visiting the city. Having done some research as to where one needs to catch a bus or minivan from, I planned to depart at 05h30 to catch the 06h00 bus. However, in the process of making these plans I met my German neighbours, who were also planning on going to Torotoro the next morning. This was strange as I didnāt know I had neighbours :). It was two Airbnb apartments that were next door to one another. So we made a plan to head off to catch the quicker minivans later the next morning rather than at 05h30.
We arrived at the minivan stop at 08h05ā¦.and bought tickets ā¦but we were only three people on the list šĀ So we waitedā¦and waitedā¦.and two more tourists rocked up (Lena from Austria and Diego from Spain)- we were very happy! BUT this meant that we were STILL only half full! So we waitedā¦and waitedā¦and waited!! We kept asking when the van would leave and got different answers each time. Then, eventually were told that if by 10h30 no one else arrived we would leave. Having had enough of waiting though we asked if we could leave immediately if we purchased an extra ticket between us. The answer was YES! So we gathered an extra 7 bolivianos each, got in the vanā¦ and watched four more people arriveā¦and we left at 10h30!!! So not a very good investment on our part!! Dumb tourists! š
Having waited for 2.5 hours we were delighted to be off! However firstly we went around the blockā¦to our starting pointā¦then we stopped to try and figure out where to pick up another passengerā¦the driver was told she was east of usā¦very handy in a large city! If you are wondering how I know thisā¦ the German couple (Clemens and Nicole) spoke very good Spanish- mine has not improved to that level! We eventually found this girl, whose dad got off, she got on and we were off! Not for too long until we stopped at our first petrol station. The rule is that everyone gets out the vehicle while you refuel- which to me is dumb as you have a whole lot of extra bodies wondering around the petrol station with all the traffic… and I had to do a whole load of gymnastics to get over the bags next to me to get out. We took the opportunity to get a snack and use the toilets. All of us clambered back in and we were offā¦until about 20 minutes later when we stopped at another petrol stations and filled up, same procedure as last time. Not sure what we were filing this time? BUT WAIT- THEREāS MORE! 15 minutes later we stop to check our tyre pressure- this is just by the side of the road vendor. Our driver is concerned about the front tyres and keeps sticking his head out and asking the passenger to check the other tyre. In another 10 minutes we stop by ANOTHER petrol station!!! Yipā¦same procedure as last time again! This time the driver promised it was the lastā¦PHEW- he was right! Though it was also the last petrol station until we reached the village of Torotoro!! We were joking that the only thing Iām going to write about in my blog was not about the National Park but the petrol stations on the way to the National Park! I donāt think that we were far off!
We were finally on our wayā¦and joked around as to what else we could stop and fix/check or replace enroute! However, all was OK for the next few hours. We stopped by a market-which we thought meant that someone was getting off, however it was only for a few people to do some shopping, then we were back on the road! The whole road is being worked, construction everywhere and yet nothing is completed anywhere! To give you an idea the road is only 136km and takes 5-6 hours!!
As we got more uncomfortable on the longish journey we ended up stopping to check tyre pressure again at a local vendorā¦and didnāt get much further before we stopped on a bridge and had to change the tyre that had been giving up the ghost for the last few hours of bad road conditions! Iām glad that we changed this tyre as we were about to gain a whole lot of weight!! We were flagged down by a lady and her few kids and pallets of farm produce, all got in at a very tight squeeze! A few kilometres down the road a man flagged us down, and his whole family came to the road from the house. The driver asked how many people had to travel- he said all 5! Not wanting to lose any income all 5 got in. So we had 4 in the front- a girl sitting on her sisterās lap in the middle seat, myself and all the bags in the next 3 seats and 13 more people behind me! 18 in total! Some ladies were standing- or bending over for the next 45min- 1 hour! Even funnier was that with the stopping, fuss and 10 additional people, Diego did not wake up from his nap! š
The road passes through tiny villages and through riverbeds and towards the end climbs steeply by way of switchbacks to the village of Torotoro. The view becomes amazing from here too- you can view the strangely shaped mountainsā¦ they look like dinosaur teeth or spines that run along their backs! This is ironic as the National Park has been created to protect dinosaur heritage ā most specifically fossilised footprints.
Our journey lasted nearly 6 hours so we were super happy to get out and find our respective accommodation and meet up later for dinner! All most of us had eaten the whole day was junk food!
The next morning, we were excited to be headed into the Park. The first thing that needed to be organised was tickets, then guides- no one enters the park without guides. (if you ever go to Torotoro note that the Dirrecion de Turismo in the main square is NOT where tickets are organised- there is a Parque Nacional office that is next to the large sport hall type building that has a huge orange roof.) All of us proceeded to discuss how we would split the tours (6 people splits the fixed cost 6 ways and is thus the cheapest). The problem was me- I didnāt want to go the cave- as caves donāt tickle my fancy much, I have seen many of them and I didnāt want to get stuck in the tiny crawl spaces in this particular one! Diego really wanted to go and had limited time as so wanted to go on this day- Iām grateful to Diego for keeping us together and staying an extra night and going to the cave with the group the next day!
We headed off to Cuidad de Itas (City of Rocks) first in rainy and very misty weather. The drive is about an hour long and a few views we have between clearings is pretty fabulous! We tart our 2 hour walk in drizzle but it clears up fairly quickly and the low lying clouds also start to fade. The walk is really diverse and we see many different landscapes and superb views! There is climbing down narrow passes, up ladders and hand holds-so not recommended if you have mobility issues or serious fear of heights! (letās pretend I donāt have the second problem!!)
We then drive back to the village for lunch before heading to El Vergel Canyon and waterfall. The lookout is a semicircular steel structure that overhangs the canyon and is pretty scary and spectacular! The canyon is approx. 250m deep here and goes down to a depth of 500m!
After enjoying the views from above we take the 800 stairs down into the canyon and jump over many rocks and creeks to finally get to the waterfall. It is quiet an adventure and the canyon walls tower above us as we walk through it! There are humungous rocks that the river weaves around and over in mini waterfalls.
The guys take a swim in the water pool under the waterfall, while us girls take in the views. When we are done the group peer pressures me into climbing up some boulders for a fab photo with the waterfall as a back drop- crazy youngsters! J The 800 steps back up had me huffing and puffing āin the dustā of the fit youngsters. It was a great day and we head back the short distance to town, all glad that we had a fabulous day and that the weather cleared up wonderfully!
2 replies on “Torotoro National Park”
A jadalne pajaki, zmije albo inne sa? Atakuja? Ten kanjon mi sie bardzo podoba.
Love reading you adventures Joā …thank you …š